Saturday, December 3rd, Manjack Cay anchorage

We could hear the wind which would move the boat around, but there were no big waves and it was fairly comfortable. I had the last of Nancy’s grapefruits for breakfast.

We launched the dinghy in this wind, it blowing all around with Ken trying to hold it while I quickly released the halyard to let it down. We put on the motor, got the anchor, life jackets, put the camera and vhf radio in a waterproof bag (we do learn, sometimes), and I hopped aboard. Ken put the motor into gear and it died! The wind was quickly blowing us away from the boat. I was trying to untangle the anchorline as Ken rowed us back to the boat. One has to be prepared for strong current and winds in the Bahamas. He started the motor again, letting it warm-up for awhile, then we were on our way into a beautiful little beach next to some houses.

We’d heard the owners of Manjack welcomed cruisers but we didn’t know if we were welcome everywhere. A sign on the beach said ‘Pet chickens roaming. Please leash dogs’ so we figured people were expected. Then another sign pointed to the beach and we proceeded. Next we saw a mast! and a walkway. Someone hailed us and we met Bill, the owner, and later his wife Leslie. They’ve lived on the island 20 years, Bill with his boats and Leslie with her gardens.

Rosa and Jillian arrived from the 2 other boats and we walked to the beach with them, where we beach combed for an hour or so. I found a heart sea bean and a sea biscuit and Jillian found a hamburger sea bean. We left them to join Bill and Leslie while we went back to the boat to recover from our long walk!!

Friday, December 2nd, 2011 Manjack Cay anchorage

The winds are to kick up to 20-30K tomorrow through Tuesday. We could hear the wind howling and whistling through the rigging most of the night, but by morning it calmed down.

We went into the ship’s store and marina office to ask about breakfast. The workboat from Coopers Town was just arriving. We were shown the way into the restaurant, seated at a booth—the only 2 customers, of course. The waiter brought a menu: 2 eggs, sausage or ham, homefries, Bahamian bread toasted for $14; an omelet for $16; and 2 other choices. Ken and I both opted for the first choice with coffee. We got the royal treatment and a grand breakfast, plus Ken got to try a piece of Bahamian carrot cake that was more of a brownie, he said.

Back at the boat we filled the water for 30 cents/gallon. I sponged off what salt I could off the stanchions, bimini and dodger frames, and washed all the eisenglass. They were lenient with the checkout time of 11am and after paying our bill, including some Bahamian pineapple rum, 2 mats, and 2 green peppers, and saying goodbye to Dave, Camellia, and Ryder, we were off.

Out into the Sea of Abaco we pulled out the jib and sailed here. It was a relaxing, quiet sail, we being the only boat out in it. Three boats were anchored at Manjack. We chose a spot between Crab Cay and Manjack (pronounced Munjack) that is protected from the NE and E. To celebrate we broke out the pineapple rum. A beautiful anchorage!

Thursday, December 1st, Spanish Cay Marina

Okay, so Ken wasn’t nauseous and didn’t feel seasick. I did and Camellia said she did on Southern Heat, and I felt a little queasy most of the day.

We woke up and looked outside and it looked like we were in the middle of nowhere. We were in the middle of nowhere! Boats had left the anchorage, 2 boats pulling out, leaving Southern Heat, and us. I hailed Dave and Camellia to say we were ready to leave and they said they’d be right behind us. We’d both decided to clear customs at Spanish Cay Marina.

After motoring into the wind around the west end of the cay, Ken pulled up the m’sail to find one of the sail slides was broken, so he pulled it down and tied it. We pulled out the jib rounding the corner and were able to sail with the strong 18-20K north wind. The water was turquoise clear and we’d see dolphins playing at the bow, diving under the boat, coming out of the water, then diving back under. Three stayed in front of the boat for about 5 minutes.

I hailed Spanish Cay Marina to let them know we needed a slip and we’d be clearing customs. We were informed the customs officer would only be there until 4pm. Ken turned on the motor to motorsail, but we were too far away to make it. Dave assured us this would not be a problem. Ken pulled up our yellow quarantine flag.

We pulled into the marina after Southern Heat, taking a slip next to the only other boat there. The place was deserted of boats, not the busy marina like it was when we’d come here in 2008. Later we learned it had been hard hit by Hurricane Irene and most of the docks had to be replaced. We were warmly welcomed by everyone, the deckhand asking if we’d like to eat in the restaurant. We declined but said we’d be in for breakfast. Dave and Camellia went in for supper, the only 2 customers.

The customs officer waited to check both of us in, which was nice of her. Then I rushed off to take a shower. We even have internet on the boat!!

Wednesday, November 30th, Great Sale Cay anchorage!! Bahamas!!

The wind died down about 3:30am. By 7am it looked great. This would put our timing off, getting to Great Sale Cay at night, but it looked like our only opportunity for awhile. I hailed Southern Heat and they were thinking the same thing. South Wind hailed us, but we couldn’t catch the message. It sounded like he’d left, probably when the winds died, and he was on his way. We never caught up with him.

We were underway at 7:30am. Just as we were going out the Lake Worth Inlet, a huge container ship was coming in. We were on our way! Ken kept an eye on the water temperature. When it was a steady 87-88 degrees, we knew we were in the Gulf Stream, plus the water was cobalt blue. And the waves were big, big enough the autopilot couldn’t manage so Ken steered most of the way. We kept wondering when they’d lie down, like Chris Parker predicted, but it wasn’t until early afternoon that it calmed. There were flying fish, their little fins beating fast like wings. Other than that and a couple of ships, one huge mega-cruise ship, we didn’t see anything but Southern Heat’s sails ahead of us. It being rolly, we were both nauseous and avoided going below. It would have been very uncomfortable doing this at night with the waves large and the autopilot unable to manage.

At 4:30pm we were on the Bahama banks! An 8 hour crossing! Yea!! We were still motorsailing with both m’sail and jib, wanting to make our destination ASAP, and going 6.8-7knots with the wind out of the north. Things were going well, even in the dark with not much to guide us but the chart plotter, Southern Heat’s lights ahead, a few dim stars in the cloudy night, and the compass. I was at the helm and Ken was resting in the cockpit when the boat veered off course due to the strong wind. I put the autopilot on standby and tried to get the boat back on course but was completely disoriented by the lack of anything to focus on. Other night crossings, like going up the New Jersey coast and through Lake Erie and Lake Huron, there were lights on the horizon, but here there was nothing. Finally, we got back on course, but furled the jib so the autopilot could manage the wind.

Because of the lack of lights, the lights from the anchorage were visible 5 miles out, and it looked like there were only a couple of boats in there. Southern Heat hailed us to let us know what was in there: a few boats with anchor lights, but some without, which is stupid because this in one anchorage where boats do come in at night. We took down the m’sail right before the anchorage, in the dark. I’d thought of insisting we take it down before dark, but forgot how important that would be. We slowly motored into the anchorage, distances deceptive. We dropped the hook out in the middle far away from any other boat, and still somewhat sheltered from the north wind. What a relief! We were sore and achy, cranky and exhausted and seasick. But we were in the Bahamas!!

Tuesday, November 29th, South Lake Worth anchorage

The wind quieted to nothing and the water was dead calm. It was a peaceful night.

Boats were pulling out of the anchorage and headed south?, we weren’t sure because it certainly hadn’t calmed down outside yet. Some were going to the south anchorage to wait to cross over to the Bahamas, like we were going to do.

We left after a nice lunch, stopping at the Riviera Beach Municipal Marina for fuel, water, and to dispose garbage. We had to wait for a long time for a SeaTow boat to leave, another SeaTow waiting for it. As we were going into the channel to the anchorage, both SeaTow boats were towing MitSeaAH, a huge sailboat we’d seen going into Tidewaters Marina in Norfolk.

Just as we were pulling into the anchorage, a hail went out from Southern Heat for boats wanting to cross to Great Sale Cay tonight. I answered the hail and said we were. This started a discussion among boats about the weather and the crossing. I heard Discovery talking on the VHF about Chris Parker’s report saying the cold front would funnel air down the Gulf Stream building up waves. Marilyn from Discovery read Chris Parker’s report to us, which also said to check Fowlie Rock buoy. South Wind from Alaska chimed in to say he’d be interested in going with our group, if we went. Exuberant was outside on their way to Miami and Prue hailed us to let us know what it was like out there and to call them later to check with them when we were ready to go.

At 6pm the consensus was to go. The weather had calmed, the buoys looked good, but we’d check again at 11pm, our departure time. We readied to leave, putting the dinghy on the bow, fixing pizzas to eat on the way, taking the sailcover off, getting the jacklines ready, and resting as much as possible.

At 10:30pm I turned on the VHF to hear Southern Heat and South Wind discussing the crossing. Southern Heat said the buoys didn’t look good; the wind had kicked up with the waves and Dave thought it a no go. I hailed Exuberant and Burt said he had to veer out into the Gulf Stream to avoid a freighter and it was nasty out there. That decided it. We’d wait. Unfortunately, if we didn’t go now, we probably wouldn’t get a chance for 5 or more days because there was a strong frontal system coming in with strong east winds.

Monday, November 28th, North Lake Worth anchorage

The south winds were predicted to be strong with gusts in the 30K. I’d thought of staying right where we were, protected behind the causeway. We left fairly early into a sunny fairly calm ICW and the south wind did not pick up until almost through the St Lucie Inlet, then it started blowing and kicking up waves that would splash into the dodger. We’d considered anchoring in Peck Lack, where about 10 boats were already anchored, but it really didn’t look too well protected and Ken wanted to continue. The clouds were black all along the west and we would see rain in the distance, but everything dissipated before it reached us, thankfully.

We had 7, yes, 7 bridges to go through! The Hobe Sound Bridge, opening on the hour and every 20 minutes after, which we timed fairly well. Then the 3 bridges, 707 Bridge, Jupiter Federal Bridge, and Indiantown Road Bridge around Jupiter Inlet. Because of the current and wind, we were way off the mark at the Donald Ross Bridge and had to do donuts biding the time. The last 2 were fairly easy. We timed the PGA Bridge fairly well, then it was just 15 minutes and 1.5 miles to the Parker Bridge.

The waves and were kicking in Lake Worth. We followed the markers in the anchorage, which was crowded with boats, and picked a spot. North Lake Worth has large condos with marinas with mega-yachts on the west side and large houses on the east side, so we were somewhat protected from the waves.

Sunday, November 27th, North anchorage, Jensen Beach Bridge

Katja, Geoff, and we said goodbye at Riverside Saturday night. It’s been a long, hard trip and we’ve done well getting this far together. We’ll miss them and are sorry we didn't go to the Bahamas together.

Zzzsplitch…we separated from Vero!! We untangled ourselves from the mooring ball, Plumpuppet in the middle between Interlude and Blue Planet, then waited in line for the fuel dock. After filling up with fuel and water, we were once again on our way, which took a little time to get used to after 10 days on a mooring ball. The day was uneventful, a beautiful, sunny warm Florida day. It was Sunday and we had quite a few powerboats overtake us or meet us, but all were considerate of their wake.

We entered the anchorage carefully and found 6’5” at high tide at one spot. We picked a spot to drop the anchor in the middle and in front of 2 small anchored sailboats. One skipper came up to us in his dinghy and said to anchor farther back from shore because there was a lot of electricity in the water this close to a buried cable, and we would hear a lot of crackles and pops. We up-anchored and anchored in the middle and behind the 2 boats. One other boat came in later.

We could see Nettles Island and Jan and Bob’s condo. I called Jan and waved to them and she said to look for their Christmas tree, but we couldn’t see it. It was a beautiful night and we were sheltered from the south wind behind the causeway.