Cat Island

We left Conception Saturday, Feb 18th. With the wind directly behind us, we furled the m’sail but still made good time w/the NW current. Before we left, Ken was able to fix that Dutchmen line, having just enough extra to do the job, w/me holding a bucket under the attachments while he removed the screws and nuts on the bouncing boat.

We saw 2 boats sailing out of The Bight at Cat Island, but none anchored near New Bight. I reminded Ken Diane (s/v Pearl) said it was very quiet, but we didn’t expect to be the only boat. Later a catamaran came in and left early the next day. We could see The Hermitage in the distance.

We’re here to sit out the front, rather than sit it out at Conception, and to go to a clinic to check an eye infection Ken has. And to visit The Hermitage, a stone house built in the 1940s by Father Jerome that sits on Mt. Alvernia, the highest hill in the Bahamas. We walked to The Hermitage Sunday and were picked up by a group of Bahamians. All of us hiked to the top and we got a guided tour from one of the group. Father Jerome must have been a tiny man. The place is austere w/one tiny room where he studied and prayed, another tiny room where he did his cooking, another teensy room w/a table, an outside alcove w/a built in soapdish for a shower, then a separate building w/his tiny (about 2’ by 5’) bed. But the view! makes up for it. Very interesting

Conception

Wednesday, February 15th, we sailed up to Joe’s Sound and anchored off Hog Cay, a beautiful little anchorage w/ about 5 boats visible anchored in the protected anchorage of the little creek and one boat anchored near us. We had a perfect view of the sunset across the water and were rewarded w/a green flash. The night was awesome, seeming more isolated than any place we’ve been, even Great Sale Cay, with absolutely no ambient light other than a couple of the anchor lights from the boats. However, it was rather bouncy w/the strong easterly breeze coming off the low island.

Thursday morning we pulled out the sails and had a great sail up to Cape Santa Maria where we could see the Columbus Monument. Then we turned into the wind and debated turning around. Ken held the boat between 20-25 degrees off our course to prevent too much beating into it, but it still took us 6 hours to go 20 miles. We pulled into the anchorage and dropped the hook amid 5 boats. One of the Dutchmen lines broke. These help flake the m’sail and w/o it, the sail flopped all over in the wind. Not too nice in a bouncy boat.

Conception Island is a National Park w/no fishing, no facilities, and lots of snorkeling. There’s a mangrove swamp in the middle accessible by dinghy at high tide. The northwest corner provides a nice anchorage but no protection in a westerly wind. Early Friday we took a dinghy ride to the mangrove entrance but the tide was ebbing. Reconsidering, we’d do some snorkeling and come back later, preferably w/another boat. After snorkeling amid the protected reefs, Ken snorkeling north of the island and w/me near a reef closer to the beach, we decided not to take the long ride to the swamp. Another trip. That night 15 boats were in the anchorage, including a 120-150’ yacht anchored aways out. It looked like a little city at night w/all the anchor lights.

This picture is off Hog Cay, not Conception where there are no buildings, no facilities, nothing but a low lying island.

Thompson Bay, Long Island

Thursday, Feb. 9th, we moved the boat to Kidd’s Cove, right outside George Town. After taking the dinghy across Elizabeth Harbour, 1 mile, the day before, we figured it’d be easier to move the boat to get the fuel, water, and some groceries. We saw Tom and Cathy (s/v Interlude) at Exuma Market Wednesday. It was nice to see people we knew! And we went out to dinner at St. Francis Resort on Stocking Island and got caught up on email, etc. Thursday we saw Chris and Tom (s/v Polar Pacer) while doing errands. This cruising life involves a very small number of boats.

After listening to Cruisers’ Net at 8AM, VHF 72, we headed out for Long Island. It was another beautiful sunny day in the Bahamas, but not a good sailing day w/the 10K east wind. We noted landmarks as we cruised down Great Exuma Island: Tropic of Cancer, Santinas, Williams Town. Remember?, Katja and Geoff?

We came into Thompson Bay amid 20 other boats, which quickly swelled to 40 boats the next day with the front. We bounced around all day Saturday. It was so bouncy I spent most of the day in the cockpit because I was nauseous. A group of people were at the beach, which we thought was odd, wondering how they maneuvered their dinghies in the turmoil of waves. Later we found out they were trapped on the beach. A group had gone together sightseeing and couldn’t get back to their boats because their dinghies kept filling up w/water every time they’d try to get in them.

Long Island Breeze Resort right at Salt Pond caters to the cruisers. Jackie and Mike, the proprietors, have a floating dinghy dock for the cruisers and manage the Cruisers’ Net every morning on VHF 18. A call came out from Jackie for help moving the dinghy dock before the strong west wind would pummel it and some cruisers responded. We didn’t get in to check out the resort until Tuesday when we moved the boat closer to Salt Pond to get fuel, water, and some groceries.

Sunday was another day on the boat. The wind would not let up! The boat next to us put their dinghy in, moving it from the foredeck, like we do, and carefully lowering the motor using their halyard. They did well w/the help of their grandson and extra lines on the dinghy. What the heck! We’d try it, and the wind caught our dinghy and nearly blew it away! Ken grabbed it and I let go the halyard before it sailed off again. After that, and w/the winds not abating, we nixed going ashore for another day.

Monday we finally got off the boat and dinked to the beach, walked thru the brush on a sandy path and up to Salt Pond via Queens Highway (every island has a Queens Highway). We were impressed w/Hillside Supply, a well stocked grocery and hardware store; ate at Sou’ Side (cheeseburger, cheeseburger), and listened to the chatter on the TV about Whitney Houston’s death. Sad.

That night about 50 people congregated on the beach for a pre-Valentine party. It was fun talking to Kathy and Darius (s/v Breeze Hunter), Tom and Cathy (s/v Perseverance II), Gayle and Bruce (s/v Aquarelle), and meeting Dorothy and Glenn (s/v Dotsway) and others. A group was going to the Jumentos and we considered joining them, but decided to go the other way to Conception.

Valentine’s Day Long Island Breeze Resort was having a dinner and dance and a lot of the cruisers were going, but we decided to stay on the boat. After moving the boat closer to Salt Pond and getting fuel and water, which we carried to the beach because the dock at Long Island Petroleum was destroyed in the hurricane, we went into the resort and hooked up to internet and saw Pete and Diane (s/v Pearl). They’d spent 3 weeks at Cat Island and warned us it’s very quiet. We said we like quiet. We sat down next to Pam and Glenn (m/v Cacique), cruising veterans. We all recognized our boats from the ICW and it was nice to finally meet them. We were sorry to say goodbye to such a great group, but cruising calls.

Sand Dollar Beach, Stocking Island, Elizabeth Harbour, George Town anchorage

We broke away from Black Point and headed south Monday February 6th, making it to Lee Stocking Island, home of the Caribbean Research Center. Going out Galliot Cut with the SE wind and the ebbing tide made for an exciting passage with huge waves against us, but the current and wind with us, whizzing through the cut at 6.7K. Our speed decreased as we turned into the SE with spray going over our bow. Thankfully, only 12 miles until Adderly Cut and around to the anchorage at Lee Stocking. 3 boats were on mooring balls. Opting to anchor we dropped the hook among them; 3 chartered Beneteaus came in and took the remaining 3 mooring balls, and 2 other boats anchored. Numerous boats were anchored south at Williams Cay.

Tuesday, February 7th, we headed out early, 7am, to make it through Adderly Cut at, hopefully, slack tide, and it wasn’t bad. Once out, we hoisted the m’sail and motorsailed to Conch Cut. It was a beautiful day and the Sound was calmer than the day before. Numerous boats were out on the water. Coming into the harbour we could see a forest of sails in the distance, most around Volley Ball Beach. We tucked in a corner at Sand Dollar Beach and are enjoying the peace and quiet of the anchorage. We did dinghy into Chat ‘n Chill and saw one of the stingrays circling the dinghies at the beach and the pile of conch shells from the Chat ‘n Chill Conch Salad Bar. We could stay here: it’s warm and exotic. We have our books and Ken has his painting. I only need to find a Mexican Train game and internet!

Black Point anchorage

Wednesday, February 1st, we finally left Cambridge Cay for Black Point. We dinked over to the Exuma Park sign and pay box to pay $60 ($15/night) mooring fee after stopping to say hi to the s/v Gratitude from Brandon, VT. All of the boats in the mooring field were leaving, but new boats were coming in as we were going out the channel.

We motor sailed to Harvey Cay where we furled the jib to beat directly into the SE wind the 5 long miles to Black Point. About 40 boats were anchored Wednesday night, but most left the next day for Little Farmers.

Thursday we walked to the seaglass beach and spent about an hour collecting the glass. I love beachcombing and looking for sea glass is my favorite pastime, although it is all waiting for me to use. We ended up going once more during our stay, the first time being the most productive. Each day we thought we’d leave the next, but the weather would deteriorate and we weren’t sure the condition of Exuma Sound.

People were making arrangements for Super Bowl w/numerous parties around the islands. In Black Sound the most popular place is Lorraine’s, a small restaurant w/a laid back atmosphere. Black Sound is probably the most destitute rundown place the cruisers frequent. The big draw is Rockside Laundromat and the proprietor, Ida, also cuts hair, and there are coin operated hot showers. Besides Lorraine’s, there are DeShaMon and Scorpios. All offered Super Bowl parties, but most signed up for Lorraine’s with about 50 people in her little restaurant. We stopped in at Scorpios w/Pru and Burt from s/v Exuberant and Chris and Tom from s/v Polar Pacer. They’d just come from Little Farmers where they had a blast at the 5F.

All the islands were almost devoid of groceries because the supply boat was diverted to Little Farmers for the 5F. Little Farmers is a tiny island w/a population of 55. Most of the cruisers in the area and a lot of the Bahamian sailors and families converge on the island for the weekend. Important dignitaries, including the Prime Minister, give speeches; the racing boats and crew are transported by freighter.

Saturday, our last day, we thought, having eaten at Lorraine’s, which was an experience, we’d try DeShaMon’s. The door was closed. I checked to see if it was locked and if anyone was around. As I was entering through the unlocked door, someone from down the street hollered to say they were closed, that they’d gone to Little Farmers to the boat race and for us to eat at Lorraine’s. Lorraine’s is like no other restaurant. It’s very rundown on the outside and not much better on the inside. Lorraine herself was behind the bar, but wouldn’t wait on me to get Ken a Kalik and me a glass of wine. I had to wait on myself. She expects everyone to make themselves at home, to help themselves w/drinks and to keep a tally of it themselves. One table will give her their order then she goes into the kitchen and prepares it while all the rest of us wait our turns. After getting our drinks and serving one table, we gave her our order and I told a new couple, Cathy and Robert on s/v B n G what to expect. We spent the meal exchanging stories w/Cathy and Robert. Just as we were finishing, Lorraine said she was stepping out for awhile and could someone answer the VHF if anyone called. We figured out about what our bill would be, left the money at the table, and left. And this is why the cruisers embrace her, and why they embrace the whole community because they’re all like this. They’re all friendly and appreciate anything that’s done for them, yet they’re extremely casual about everything.

One night we joined Ann and Joe at Scorpios for happy hour and another had happy hour on their boat. We met Phillip and Sasha and their twins Chantelle and Corwin from Wyoming on s/v Amazing Grace. And Bruce and Gayle on s/v Aquarelle, who are veterans of cruising. The bay went from 40 boats to 20 during the 5F and back up to 50 boats for Sunday and the Super Bowl parties. It was time to leave.

Cambridge Cay mooring ball

We left the anchorage soon after 7am, following ‘Smiles’ with ‘Short Walk’ following us. Later ‘Makani’ and ‘Coyote’ caught up w/us and headed on to Highbourne Cay. The wind was nearly on our nose. I hailed Ann and Joe to say we might divert to Highbourne so we could sail, but decided against it, pulled out the jib, and motored sailed.

About 3 hrs into Exuma Sound about 20 small dolphins played in our bow wave and then veered off to the port side, leaping and bounding out of the water. One small one did impossible jumps, way into the air, upside down, until I determined it wasn’t a dolphin but a large fish they were tossing into the air. As I was scanning the horizon I saw a whitecap that didn’t disappear, looked thru the binoculars and saw it was a dinghy in the middle of Exuma Sound! I hailed Short Walk, who was a few miles behind us, to keep an eye out for it. We saw them change directions and they picked up a brand new 10’Zodiac inflatable w/a 15hp motor. Joe put out ‘securite’ calls and later found out s/v Chaunticler’ lost it at Rum Cay. It had traveled 100 miles north in Exuma Sound.

The crossing across Exuma Sound was a gentler crossing than across the NE Providence Channel. Just outside Bell Cut, we furled the sails and slowly motored into the mooring area where 5 others boats were moored with plenty of moorings open.

Sunday, January 29th, we lolled on the boat, listened to the weather on VHF 12 at 8am that ‘Blue Yonder’ transmits from Staniel Cay, and the mooring assignments at Exuma Park on VHF 09 at 9am. On our way to the seaglass beach we stopped and saw Ann and Joe to discuss the dinghy, which looks brand new and the owner is supposed to pick up tomorrow. Later we all snorkeled at the Sea Aquarium, a beautiful protected reef w/mooring balls for dinghies. Lots of Sergeant Majors, parrot fish of different colors, beautiful coral, and many other colorful fish. We also stopped at the downed plane, a small submerged plane w/reefs nearby. A large stingray w/its long stinger was partially buried in the sand. I opted not to go in w/the strong current but could see the stingray using the looky bucket. Then on to some small islands near to the mooring field. I walked to the island and sandbar we had used for happy hour, and Ann and I found boards to make a table. And, next to the Exuma Park sign was the pay box. On the way back to the boat we stopped at all the boats to notify them of happy hour on the island at 4:30pm. We all converged on the island w/appetizers and drinks, talked sailing, and watched the sunset for the green flash, which didn’t happen because of a cloud obscuring the sun on the horizon.

Next to Cambridge Cay is Belle Island. A sheik owns it, even though it’s in the Park, and is completely reorganizing the island, excavating from one side a monstrous pile of sand on the other. It was a shock to see the change. Johnny Depp owns Little Halls Pond Cay, close to the Sea Aquarium, but has kept the buildings low key, so far.

That night the front hit the area, rigging screeching and boat rocking back and forth, temperature dropping into the low 70s. It was a chance to cook: teff muffins, coleslaw, and the rest of the mutton snapper we bought in Spanish Wells. Later we dinked over to the beach w/the casuarinas and found the trail to the ocean side, stopped at the beach to Bell Rock and talked to Ann and Joe and Steve, the owner of ‘Chaunticler’, who couldn’t thank us enough for finding his dinghy, a needle in a haystack and on its way to Eleuthera where it would have beached on the sandbars, probably rotting in the sun and sand.

Tuesday, January 31st, we’d planned on leaving, but the weather had other plans. Rain came down in sheets, the wind rocking the boat. We later heard boats sailing on the Exuma bank clocking 32-35K. Many boats were making plans to go to the 5F Festival at Little Farmers Cay (Little Farmer Cay Festival on the First Friday in February). We were debating whether to join them or stay at Black Point enjoying the peace and quiet.

Rock Sound anchorage

Leaving beautiful Alabaster Bay around 8am, we sailed to Kemps Point, furled the sails and then motored on in to Rock Sound, dropping the hook near Little Gully and Pascal’s Restaurant among 4 other boats, including s/v Short Walk. ‘Makani’ and ‘Coyote’ came in later, making 11 boats in the north and central anchorages.

Ken changed the oil, pumped in the fuel, and topped off the water tanks.

The next morning, Wednesday, January 25th, Ann and Joe stopped by on their way to the gov’t dock and we dinghied over w/them. We all stopped at Dingles, a local gas station/store/internet supplier. Ken and I walked on to The Market, stopping and talking to Betsy and Jim from m/v Smiles. Ann and Joe stopped by later for happy hour and we discussed going to Cat Island, via Little San Salvador, from here.

Thursday we replenished the fuel and water. Ken and I dinghied over to the gov’t dock, a small dock w/ladders built after the other docks were destroyed, not very convenient to Dingles. He filled the 2 jerry cans then carried them out to the dock w/o ladders, what is left of the old gov’t dock. I stayed there while he brought the dinghy around, stood on the side of the dinghy, grabbed a jerry can I helped him balance, lifting it down into the dinghy. We repeated this process, which is lucky we did because the next day Dingles ran out of fuel. I also signed up for 24hr of internet.

At noon we met Ann and Joe at Pascal’s for lunch and to fill our jerry cans w/water. They’d been sitting at the table for awhile waiting for the restaurant to open. Hours for lunch were to start at 11am, but the owner didn’t get around to opening until after noon. We all discussed our plans. With the winds continuing out of the SE, it made sense to go to the Exumas first then Rum, Conception, and Cat coming back up. Later, checking the weather again, Ken and I decided we’d go the other way. I sent Ann and email and she laughed saying they’d decided to go to the Exumas. We’d wait until morning to make a final decision. Friday with the weather report from Chris Parker predicting strong winds for a few days, we all decided the Exumas made more sense, and the moorings at Cambridge Cay would provide protection, plus there’s lots of snorkeling around there.

Ken and I went into Pascal’s again Friday and on to The Market since Pascal’s was still buttoned down at 11:30. We came back and had lunch and filled our jerry cans w/water again. We got back to the boat and put up the motor and dinghy. That night was a fund raiser/dinner at the pavilion near the beach and we could hear the loud bass until 2am! We later heard from other boaters that the dinner was delicious.