Saturday October 29th, Osprey Marina, Myrtle Beach, SC

   Because we couldn’t get wifi on the boat, we got up early to have breakfast at the restaurant and to check the 2 doubtful inlets.  The crabmeat, roasted red pepper, and goat cheese omelets were delicious!  However, the wifi was questionable and we gave up.  Since we’d be leaving near high tide none of us thought the inlets would be a problem. 

  Lockwood’s Folly Inlet and Shallotte Inlet were no problem, seeing no less than 14’.  Shallotte was where we’d grounded on the way south last time, but we were going through at low tide and grounded in 2’ of water!  It was cold and foggy and a foggy mist was rising off Lockwood’s Folly Inlet; the fog didn’t lift until the New River where we met 2 huge casino boats.

  We went through the New River Swing Bridge; stayed together through the Rockpile, a very narrow channel where there is not enough room to meet a barge.  I gave a ‘security, security, security’ call on VHF 16 to say we were southbound and any traffic northbound to hail us.  No one did and we met no one except a couple small powerboats.  Then on to Barefoot Landing Bridge and finally Socastee Bridge, which was extremely slow, making us wait for a catamaran and sailboat.

We came into this very protected marina, almost 55miles—a long day.  Jan and Bob, formerly from s/v Banshee, now m/v Jany K, met us and we converged on their boat later for drinks and camaraderie. 

 

Friday, October 28th, 2011 St. James Marina, Southport, NC

  In the morning all the boats were dancing on their anchorage.  We were close to 2 trawlers that dance completely differently than sailboats.  Argos, from Sydney, would ride up on their anchor and we would ride way down on ours, both boats coming very close together.  It could get a little nerve wracking….however, we’d seen it all before the first time in Wrightsville when the rode got wrapped around our keel and we were the only boat not dancing.  I’d sit at the stern and literally push boats off.  And in St Augustine one boat was on all rope rode and everyone else was on chain.  That boat would dance all over the place, coming really, really close to one boat, then dance in the opposite direction and come very close to another boat.  And no one was on the boat!

  The consensus in the anchorage was to wait for the ebbing tide with the north wind in Cape Fear River.  We agreed to leave at 9am. We got through Snows Cut then into Cape Fear River with a 20K north wind.  The waves seemed manageable, however as we proceeded the waves got larger and it was harder to control the boat, and we had 10+ miles of this!  It was a relief to turn off it into the more protected channel. Then the tide was against us and it was slow progress to the marina.

  We all met for drinks and supper and shared stories and all our experiences.  This is why we’re doing all this work!!  Then we’ll have something to share with people!  And to meet such interesting people.

Thursday, October 27th, 2011 Wrightsville Beach

  There were 14 boats in the anchorage.  Katja and Geoff came in just before the sun set behind them.  It had been a beautiful night in a very protected anchorage, but we could hear the wind in the rigging.

  We agreed to leave early, 7:45am, to make the 11am hourly opening of the Surf City Swing Bridge, a whole line of us.  And then Figure Eight Island Bridge, opening on the hour and half-hour, and, finally, the Wrightsville Beach Bridge, another hourly bridge.  To time these bridges was tricky so as not to have too much time circling waiting for them to open.  We were early for the Wrightsville Beach Bridge, not wanting to take any chances, because last time coming south they didn’t wait for us to get through, and we had to anchor and wait an hour for it to open. So we circled; some boats would edge up in line and not leave us too much room to circle.  One time Ken jerked the helm to port, not realizing he had got so close to the edge of the channel and was in 4’6”.  The trawlers and powerboats came right up front, no matter what, and one was in front of Blue Planet, then stopped right in the middle of the bridge opening and sidled over to a dock, using their side thrusters, with total disregard for the boats behind him.

  We slowly proceeded through the Motts Channel and to the anchorage at Wrightsville Beach.  Blue Planet went through Shinn Creek and came up the Banks Channel to the anchorage.  The wind was still blowing from the north; we were fairly protected in the anchorage.

Wednesday, October 26th, 2011, Mile Hammock Bay, Camp LeJeune, NC

  Happy Birthday, Jeremy!

  We made it through the 9am opening of the Beaufort Bridge, then through the turning basin into Morehead City and out into Bogue Sound.  Just before hailing the bridgetender on VHF 13, Warship 44 announced on VHF 16 she was leaving Morehead City and to give her plenty of space, that any boat coming within 100 yards could be stopped.  When we got into the channel we could see the huge outline of the ship, which was, luckily, out the inlet.

  The current was with us until Bogue Inlet and we made good mileage even against the 15K SW wind.  High tide was early so we would be going through some of the inlets at near low tide.  Geoff and one of the boats ahead of us kept up a running commentary of the depths and Browns Inlet with the dredge near the middle of the channel proved the most challenging.  We turned into Mile Hammock Bay and 14 boats are anchored here for the night, which might not be too quiet because the marines are doing some type of night maneuvers with the Osprey.

 

Tuesday, October 25th, 2011, Harbor of Refuge, Beaufort, NC

  Today we would go up the ‘nasty’ Neuse and the winds were from the north, northwest, which would make it nasty.  An early start was recommended.  We reefed the m’sail and took off after the other sailboat.  The wind was north about 10-15K and we pulled out the jib.  When we rounded Maw Shoal into the Neuse, the wind had picked up to 15-20K and the waves looked huge, the boat surfing down them at 7+knots.  We shut off the engine and enjoyed the ride!  Once we cornered into Adams Creek, we furled the jib and pulled down the main.

  Ray was to meet us to deliver our mail and take us around.  Katja and Geoff went into Town Creek Marina, which had been hard hit by Hurricane Irene.  We went into the Harbor of Refuge with grounded boats all around us flung here and there.  After a little shopping we made a trip to Sealevel to get the mail and see Ray’s campground.  We could see the outerbanks from the beach and got a tour of NE North Carolina.  We celebrated Geoff’s and Ray’s birthdays with a nice meal at Clawsons.  Thanks, Ray.  We owe you, again!

Monday, October 24th, 2011, Geoff’s birthday

Bay River, entrance to Bear River, NC

  We joined the parade of boats entering the Alligator-Pungo Canal and made good time to marker G15 where we turned into Dowry Creek Marina to get fuel and a pump-out.  A sailboat was stranded on land from Hurricane Irene, which had done a lot of damage to the Belhaven area.  Our plan was to spend the night but, since we made such good time, we opted to continue, wanting to cross the Pamlico River while the going was good.  We motorsailed down the Pungo and across the Pamlico River into Goose Creek, where we furled the jib.  Other boats were pulling off into little creeks to anchor.  Just at the end of the creek/canal a barge was taking up most of the channel and Ken almost had to go outside the channel to let him pass.  We rounded the corner and came into this wide area with fairly good protection from everything but the south.  One other boat came in and anchored.

Sunday, October 23rd, 2011 Tuckahoe Point, Alligator River

  We had agreed to leave at 7am, even though sunrise wasn’t until 7:19am.  Three sailboats got out before us and more after with a parade of about 10 boats going down the Pasquotank.  The Albermarle was churning with waves all which ways.  As we got out into it the waves increased in size and we were pooped a couple of times.  We were all nervous about the entrance to the Alligator River and the increased shoaling, but we followed the markers and the parade of boats and saw nothing less than 9’.  We motorsailed up the river and by the time we got to the bend where it narrows to go into the Alligator-Pungo Canal, the wind had increased to near 20K and the waves with it.  Even though the wind still blew, there were no waves around the bend and we anchored in near calm conditions.  9 boats were anchored at Tuckahoe Point and 7 others anchored at Deep Point and Bear Point.

Saturday, October 22nd, 2011, City Docks, Elizabeth City, NC

  We chose a good time to leave when the wind had died down and the current was near slack, so our leaving the slip was easy and getting into the slip at the City Docks was easy.  The last farmer’s market was in full swing right at the dock and we picked up some Arkansas Black apples, great cheese, some Scuppermong grape jelly for Geoff for his birthday (not that it will compare with Katja’s homemade grape jelly), and some cinnamon-sugar pecans.

  The talk at the dock was the NW wind and the Albermarle Sound.  One trawler had gone out the Pasquotank River, heard reports of 5’ waves in the Sound, and turned around and came back.  We were wondering if we’d be there another night and one of the Rose Buddies said it might be a few days, and regaled me with stories about how nasty the Sound could be.

  Larry and Lynn printed out a weather report for us and we decided it didn’t sound too bad for the next day.  They took us shopping then we went out to the Logan Rayes Key West Grille for an early supper and told Bahama stories.  They’re staying home this winter but said they’d live vicariously through all of us.  It was wonderful seeing them!

Friday, October 21st, 2011 Pelican Marina, Elizabeth City, NC

  It was near freezing, 40 degrees outside and 50 in the boat!  We got our alcohol heater going, which helped, but were thinking of the marina with electricity and our little electric heater.  We three sailboats left about 10am to get the 11am opening of the South Mills Bridge and the South Mills Lock.  I hailed the lockmaster and he said he’d open the bridge but there was a disabled boat going into the lock.  We had to wait for them to get the small powerboat situated in the lock before we could enter.  Later we saw TowBoat US speeding up the river; Ken said the skipper said it would have cost about $1000 if they didn’t have insurance.

  I finally saw turtles basking on the logs and deadheads in the Pasquotank River.  Lots of them, big, little, all in a row on logs or 2 or 3 perched on tiny deadheads.  The wind had picked up, a strong west wind.  There was room at the City Dock but the thought of electricity made us decide to go into Pelican Marina.  They put us in an inner slip and with the west wind blowing behind us, we knew it’d be tricky trying to maneuver.  There was no straight shot into the slip.  I could see it was beyond my expertise and quickly gave the helm to Ken.  He’d turn the boat only to have the wind catch it, then have to back down, afraid he might go too far where it was too shallow.  I was running up and down the deck fending us off pilings.  At one point he almost had it, stern in, but had it in forward instead of reverse so had to start over.  The marina hands were cheering us on:  ‘You’ve got it now, Skipper.’  ‘Almost.’  ‘One more try will do it.’  I swear one smoked a cigarette waiting for us.  We finally made it, bow in, tied lines around the pilings, and were secure.  Whew!  That was exciting!  Of course, as soon as we got in the slip, I started worrying about how we were going to get out!

  After showers we all decided to walk to town to check out the city docks.  One local yokel gave us a ride in his truck, Ken having to ride in the bed.  We said hi to Bob from ‘Ace of Diamonds’ and Ray and Jody from ‘Whisper’, then ate supper at the Cypress Creek Grill and walked back to the marina.

Thursday, October 20th, 2011 Dismal Swamp Welcome Center

  Strong winds were predicted with heavy rains coming up the coast.  During the night we could hear the winds whistling in the rigging and rustling the tall cypress and pine trees.  We were glad for the protection of the Dismal Swamp.  All but we three sailboats (Plumpuppet, Blue Planet, and Salty Spouse) left, for where, we weren’t sure because Elizabeth City was reported to be full.  I called Pelican Marina in Elizabeth City to reserve a slip just in case there was no room at the City Dock when we got there.  We were to meet Lynn and Larry Morrow (s/v Two Morrows) in Elizabeth City on Saturday.

  The Welcome Center offered to take anyone to the grocery store and Katja and I opted to go.  We got a running commentary during the trip; information about the Dismal Swamp fire and how it’s still burning in the 6 foot peat; how a fire had made Lake Drummond and this fire will probably enlarge the lake but they don’t know what the result of that will be to the canal.

  2 boats came in to the Center in the afternoon, a powerboat with a group of four wanting to have a good time, and good time they had, partying all night long with little regard for the other boats.  Another was Whisper, a catamaran.  Ray and Jody joined us and Salty Spouse (Inza and Scott) for happy hour to tell boating stories and gather information.  Another sailboat arrived after dark, a couple of young men planning to take their small sailboat through the Panama Canal and up the California coast.

Wednesday, October 19th, 2011, Dismal Swamp Welcome Center

  The big consideration was the opening of the Gilmerton Bridge, which had just lengthened their rush hour closing to 9:30am.  We joined the parade of boats, about 10 of us in all, trawlers and sailboats.  At 9:20am the bridgetender announced an early opening due to a tug wanting passage north, so all of us amassed at green marker #22 and she let us through.  The Jordan Bridge had been removed and was being replaced and all the railroad bridges were open.  Passing under the last bridge we mistook a Virginia Cut marker for the Dismal Swamp marker and almost cut the corner too wide.  It was a relief to pass into the quieter Dismal Swamp route.

  At the Deep Creek Lock we saw a green light, hailed the lockmaster and all of us went in behind a Corp of Engineers boat that was touring the Dismal Swamp.  Robert, the lockmaster, and his dog U Turn, were familiar with the regulars and gave his usual conch recital.  We motored on down to the Welcome Center where 7 boats were rafted, not including the Corp of Engineers’ boat.  We rafted off another sailboat and Blue Planet rafted off us.  Later one other sailboat came in (the Corp of Engineers’ boat and one sailboat left), making 10 boats rafted together, 3 abreast plus one, for the night.  The night before 16 boats had stayed at the Welcome Center wall!  They must have taken up the whole canal.

  Later we all met for appetizers and drinks and got acquainted.  About half the boats are aiming for the Bahamas for the winter.

Monday, October 17th, Dozier’s Regatta Marina, Deltaville, VA

  It was a terrible night of howling winds starting about 2am.  Ken and I were both up at 3:30am listening to the wind.  We felt secure in our anchorage and with our anchor but once wakened, the gusts and howls kept us awake.  Our departure time was to be 8am, but NOAA was calling for a small craft advisory until 10am and Ken checked Serius weather which said there were 8-10 foot waves in the Potomac and the Rappahannock. 

  Other boats were leaving the anchorage and I hailed one to let us know what the conditions were in the Bay.  They hailed us back and said things were calm.  We pulled the hook and were on our way.  There were big swells like the swells in the ocean, reminiscent of the night, which died down near the Rappahannock.  Blue Planet was ahead of us and was having a hard time finding the channel due to numerous oyster boats milling around making it very confusing.  We pulled up next to them on a fingerdock. 

  Dozier’s is a beautiful place with a large deck with rocking chairs to watch the sunset cradling a rum punch; a welcome room with wifi, a TV and DVDs, books, magazines, coffee, doughnuts, and juice in the morning; large bathhouse with restrooms and showers; laundry room; and a courtesy car.  We took advantage of the courtesy car and went to West Marine and filled our jerry cans with fuel. 

Tuesday, October 18th,2011, Hospital Point, Mile Marker Zero on the ICW, Norfolk, VA

  At the first hint of dawn a parade of oyster boats noisily went out of the channel.  Ken unplugged the electric, brought in some lines, and readied the boat and we were on our way about 7am.  The sunrise was impressive—a huge ball of fire rising out of the Bay.

  We motored all the way into a mild south wind; the Bay was fairly calm with only a little chop.  We could see boats leaving all sides of Deltaville and we joined the line of boats going south, all of us trying to beat the approaching cold front.  We left Blue Planet at Dozier’s to get a later start when they were ready.

  At Thimble Shoal Light and turning west into Norfolk, leaving the Chesapeake behind us, we started for the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW) but it seemed to take forever to get to Hospital Point.  We passed huge navy ships, marinas, a naval city along the waterway.  Finally we got to red marker #36 and saw boats anchored off the channel and pulled up and dropped the hook, right next to Exuberant, friends of Ken’s brother’s from Ohio!  Later they dinghied over and said hi, figuring there would only be 1 Plumpuppet.

  We sat in the cockpit and watched the sights:  tourboats, tugs, a huge (120’?)  sailboat named ‘MITseaALL’, huge trawlers and powerboats.  And the night was lit with all the lights around us.  Hospital Point was fairly sheltered and the boat sat pretty all night long.

Sunday, October 16th, Mill Creek, Great Wicomico River

  After all that wind and possibly high winds predicted for today, I was nervous it would be a repeat of Thursday.  When I heard over the VHF that the conditions were mild, I flagged Katja to get going, and we were off a little after 7:30am.  And it was great!  15K SW, close hauled with the m’sail reefed.  We sailed to Point No Point light then turned on the motor to get through 2 tugs pulling barges, and right at the Potomac the wind died down.  We motored into here about 3pm.  By evening there were near 20 boats anchored.

Saturday, October 15th, 2011 St. Johns Creek, Solomon’s Island

  Saturday morning it was blowing like crazy from the west, the only place this anchorage didn’t have good protection, and our boats bounced.  Geoff and Ken went in to get propane with Richard and Katja and I conferred over the phone that we didn’t like this one bit.  After talking it over with Ken, who was fine with the anchorage because our anchor was holding just fine, we all moved over to a better protected creek.  Ahhhh….

  There was a swan in a little cove, ducks nearby, an eagle overhead, all to be enjoyed from our cockpit at happy hour.  The wind died down and we had a nice peaceful night.  I had stayed on the boat all day catching up on calls, and reading, and actually picked up my embroidery!

Friday, October 14th, 2011, Mill Creek

  Richard offered to take us shopping.  We all jumped into the dinghy….well, after putting the motor onto the dinghy, which involves lifting it off the bracket on the boat using the new motor lift, easing it down to the bouncing dinghy onto the bracket on its stern, getting life jackets, motoring over to Blue Planet to pick up Geoff and Katja, then motoring to Kilissa’s dock.  It was a morning of needed grocery shopping, internet for Geoff, and hardware for Ken and Geoff.

  Later Ken and Geoff went with Richard in Kilissa to get fuel.  Happy hour was at 5pm at Richard and Carole’s house since they hadn’t moved onto their boat yet.  Peter, formerly of Osprey, who we met in Green Turtle, joined us.  It was fun reliving old times.  And the story of Katja and Geoff meeting us in Staniel Kay was retold, how communication is iffy and I’d misunderstood they were to stay on our boat the first 2 nights.  We were in the west anchorage in Exuma Park and couldn’t leave due to the winds.  Of course all this was announced over the VHF and everyone knew that Katja and Geoff were stranded in Staniel Kay.  They didn’t suffer, tho, finding a nice bungalow on the beach.

Thursday, October 13th, 2011, Mill Creek, Solomon’s Island, MD

  Another drizzly, grey day, we started out around 8am and were able to motorsail with the east wind.  The wind shifted to the SE and the waves increased in size, the boat pounding into them.  Ken looked up other anchorages close by in case it wasn’t going to abate, but then conditions seemed to improve so we kept going.  The rest of the day we pounded into the waves, dodged flotsam and crabpots, and generally were exhausted.  This beautiful anchorage up Mill Creek near where Richard and Carole keep Kilissa is a welcome haven, a perfect spot to spend a couple of days, and it looks like we may be here for awhile.

  On Serius weather and the VHF there were severe weather warnings with a tornado spotted and from Drum Point (Solomon’s Island) to Norfolk, VA under a tornado watch plus severe thunderstorms in the Albermarle Sound area, south of Norfolk.

Wednesday, October 12th, 2011, Annapolis

  Plumpuppet bounced all night long on the mooring ball with the NE wind blowing directly into the harbor.  The dinghy ride in to do laundry was very choppy.  I put the laundry into the machine at the Harbormaster’s and Ken left for the marine store, which is no more (how things change in 2+ years!), so wandered the town.  Another sailor with laundry said she’d watch things if I wanted to go for coffee, which I did and tried to find Ken.  Finally he called on Katja’s phone (he’d forgotten his) and said when he checked for me in the women’s bathroom (where the washer and dryer are located), a near naked women answered the door to say I’d left.  We went to collect the clothes then went back to the boat against the chop.

  Friends of Katja and Geoff’s from the Washington, DC area visited and we all met on Blue Planet for supper. We’re leaving tomorrow for Solomon’s Island.

Tuesday, October 11th, 2011, Annapolis

  The morning was misty with a filmy mist rising among the trees and along the water.  It turned into a grey day with distances hazy and we motored with a little motor sailing.  The Strictly Sail show had just ended and the Power Boat Show is to start Thursday.  Many boats are still anchored in the harbor, large and small, sail and power.  We picked up two mooring balls and the Harbormaster boat came over to sign us up and take our fee.  Then we dinghied into the dock and walked to the Harbormaster’s building for showers.  Clean and somewhat refreshed (it’s amazing how sitting on a sailboat all day is so tiring!), we sat down at an outside table at a Bar and Grille and ate appetizers big enough for supper and had drinks.  Tomorrow we’ll do some errands and walk the town.

Monday, October 10th, mouth of Back Creek off the Sassafras River, Chesapeake Bay

  Our plan was to go to Chesapeake City in the C&D Canal.  We started out against the incoming tide at 7am, which is what we wanted because that meant the tide was still rising in the Bay and we could ride the current up the Bay.  Which we did and through the C&D Canal, opting to keep going until here.  Once in the Chesapeake there was so much flotsam—sometimes large logs and sometimes a floating mass with sticks and grass—we had to keep vigilant.  It must have been the remains of the damage from Hurricane Irene.

  We turned in the Sassafras River and arrived at this anchorage with 5 boats anchoring here for the night.  We put in the dinghy and motored up Back Creek and saw other boats moored and a beautiful plantation, then we stopped at Blue Planet for happy hour and came back to a delicious curry with rice I made in the pressure cooker.  Another beautiful night even with the cacophony of the geese taking off in streams, sounding like they were giving support to each group as they took off

Sunday, October 9th, Cohansey Creek, Delaware Bay

  I got up early and snuck out to take a shower and use the internet in the lounge since we couldn’t get it on the boat.  Departure time was to be 9am to allow some depth in the Cape May Canal, yet still hopefully not having to fight the current all the way to Cohansey Creek.  Looking at the charts again, we decided to wait until 10am.  I ran to Wawa’s hoping to get a few groceries but it was just a large convenient store.

  It was near slack tide so our departure from the marina went smoothly (and also due to finally understanding to stay within 20-30 feet of the bulkhead!).  We saw depths of nearly 15 feet all through the canal, the only skinny place being near the Cape May/Lewes ferry dock.  We fought the current most of the way up the Delaware Bay, turning into Cohansey Creek around 5pm.  As with the other 2 times we anchored there, it gave us a peaceful feeling being there, like we were in the middle of nowhere, yet just around the corner from a busy freighter channel.  It was a beautiful night with a beautiful sunset.

Friday, Oct 7th, Offshore NJ coast and Sat, Oct 8th, 2011, Cape May, NJ

  Ken and I organized the boat and I cooked for our long passage.  Katja and Geoff went to town and arrived back just before intended take-off.  We set off at 2:45pm after a lot of the other anchored boats had left.  Ken put out the jacklines and life jackets and we were bundled in warm clothes.  Motoring up Sandy Hook Bay it looked like a perfect day, then we rounded the corner into the Atlantic and huge swells swept towards us, one right after the other, dipping down one, coming up, and then dipping down another.  Needless to say, it was uncomfortable and to go down below made it worse.  That soup never got heated; cold left-overs had to do plus we didn’t feel like eating much anyway.  We had even taken precautions of pressure point bracelets, Motion Eaze behind the ears, and Stugeron 15, an antihistamine I’d picked up in the Bahamas.

  The night wore on, the moon came up, and the lights from the shore kept us company.  Atlantic City lights were visible miles and miles and hours and hours before we came abreast of it.  At one point we heard a loud clunk where we must have hit some flotsam, but nothing seemed amiss.  Finally it was dawn, that pre’mariner’s dawn’ with the first tinges of pink.  We slowed down to arrive at Utsch’s marina near 11am, check-in time. 

  Because the entrance to Utsch’s is so tricky with the large 5 feet tide, I wanted Ken and Geoff to hear the directions and I hailed the marina on VHF channel 9.  It went something like this:  ‘Utsch’s Marina, Utsch’s Marina, come in please.’  ‘This is Utsch’s Marina.’  ‘We are just coming into Cape May from the ocean and could you please repeat the directions on how to get into the marina?’  ‘Certainly, Skipper.  Keep marker 14 on your starboard then turn to port at marker 16, and keep *static static* off the bulkhead.’  ‘I didn’t copy that, could you repeat it?’  ‘Turn to port at marker 14 then keep *static static* off the bulkhead.’  Geoff hailed me and asked if I caught that.  I said I think from what they’d said originally we were to keep within 20 feet of the bulkhead.  Of course we were coming in at low tide and it got real skinny going into the marina and only registered 4 feet at the fuel dock.  We draw 4 ½ feet.  We all managed and finally got into our slips.

  Utsch’s looked like a fishing boat marina with only a few sailboats and the fishing boats would rev up their engines leaving gas fumes in their wake and gut and clean the fish right in the marina.

  I insisted Katja and Geoff try The Lobster House, this huge conglomeration of venues that seats 500 people.  We walked over there around 4pm, ate a great dinner, and then proceeded to walk downtown.  All of Cape May is an historical district.  It has more Victorian houses than anywhere else in the United States, and was the first seaside resort in the US. We saw some amazing houses and estates.

Atlantic Highlands, Thursday Oct 6,2011

  Up early Geoff hailed us on the VHF and we all bundled up in our long underware and foulies and were off at 7am.  It didn't warm up until we were in the NY Harbor.  We perked up at the George and Martha Washington bridges (George Washington Bridge, a double bridge so the 2nd one is referred to as the Martha Washington Bridge...).  The NY skyline was awesome, as usual, but the whole harbor seemed subdued with not nearly the activity we'd seen on our other trips.  Under the Verrazano Narrows bridge, inthe the Sandy Hook Bay, and down to the Atlantic Highland Marina where we fueled up then looked for an anchorage.  Most of the anchorage area is now taken up with mooring balls and we tried 3 times before Ken was satisfied with our spacing from other boats and from the channel into the dock.  In the evening a huge 50-60 foot power boat anchored right in the channel, apparently not concerned.

  With 2 long days behind us, we all agreed another long overnighter wouldn't hurt and decided to go to Cape May in one fell swoop.  Either that or get up about 3am and go to Atlantic City because the anchorage could not be approached in the dark.  Cape May it would be!

Dunderburg Mountain, Oct 5,2011

  We decided to not leave at daybreak since we were only going to Poughkeepsie, about 30 miles.  At 8:15 we motored out into the Hudson on a clear, sunny, fairly warm day, picked up the current and were breezing down the river at 9 knots, right past Poughkeepsie Yacht Club at 12:15, way too early to stop, so we kept going.  With the wind coming from behind, we pulled out the jib, giving us a .3 to .4K push, and were rushing pack Chelsea and Pollopel, the last places we could stop before Dunderburg.  Waves were increasing in size due to the tide switching and the wind opposite.  The last leg would be passing West Point then the Indian Point Nuclear Power Plant and the Dunderburg anchorage across from it.

  Passing the impressive fortress of West Point, 4 hanggliders dangled in the air then made impressive landings spiraling with the air currents.

  Anchoring at Dunderburg made me a little nervous since the currents and tide shifts caused our anchor rode to wrap around the keel last time we were here.  It was a cold night and the NE wind did not help.  Hailing Blue Planet and agreeing on another long day tomorrow, we closed down the boat and bundled up in the V berth all toasty.  I awoke about 2am to use the head and counted a freight train about every half hour after that.  None of the rest of them said they even heard the trains!

Riverview Marina, Oct 4, 2011

  Today Ken and I took a taxi to Super Walmart.  We  got a scoop about 'Harry Potter'. No, not the notorious one, and maybe that might not even be his real name, but the gossip is that he was run over, his mother or sister thought he was asleep in the road (no, I didn't get that either), that he's one of 16 children from 1 mother, and she no taller than 4'10", and the poor mother had to be transported to the hospital when she found out he had been run over and killed. 

  Ken was amazed at Super Walmart, also, and we picked up quite a few, little things, like needle nose pliers (Ken dropped his in the filthy water), 2 for $4.56...can't beat that!  We came back and did boat organizing, washed clothes, then had happy hour with Katja and Geoff on their boat and discussed our plans for the next day.  We decided the Poughkeepsie Yacht Club would be a good destination and I'd call and see about getting mooring balls.  Their are few safe anchorages south of here and they are few and far between.

  When Hurricane Irene came through this area, all the marinas prepared their boats by putting them on the hard, as they due in the winter, only they had flooding of 13 feet above normal and all thos

e boats were floating.  Riverview was practically destroyed with the docks haphazard and missing, the bank wall eroded, everything under water.  So, the place looked quite different from when we were there spring of 2009.  But they were operating and plan to rebuild everything.

Riverview, Monday Oct 3,2011

  To continue...we put up the jib, furled it, then the m'sail, because the forecast was rain and wind for the next day.  We were exhausted and it was dark by the time we finished but the boat was ready for a quick get away, if that's what we decided. Ha! 

  I have great pictures of Blue Planet's stepping of their mast, which I will post when I have more time on the internet, but none of ours because I was at Super Walmart....Catskill was a beautiful town in its hayday, which was late 19th century, and early 20th century when it was the gateway to the Catskill Mountains.  The town has beautiful brick buildings but most of the activity has now moved to a huge shopping complex outside of the center of town where there's a Super Walmart open 24/7.  Katja and I shared a taxi and bought more than we should have, or I did, because we are now living on a 34' sailboat!!

  Due to weather and needing another day in port, we decided to spend another day at Riverview.

Riverview Marina, Catskill, NY Oct, 3, 2011

Sunday started out the usual drizzly and cold and going thru the Troy Federal Lock was wet but uneventful. We were going with the current and would get up to 9 knots over ground (SOG--speed over ground). Blue sky started peaking through and then the sun came out and Geoff informed us it was 72 degrees and they were practically singing, enjoying the scenery and the view from the river.

I've got to break here. Ken pulled the jib up the companionway and he needs help hoisting it...until later...

Waterford, NY wall, October 1, 2011

A blustery, freezing cold miserable day. By the way, we have been cold since we started. We actually missed our weather window about 4 days before we left, and now it feels like winter. The morning started out drizzly and 45 degrees.

The wind picked up and with the current we were doing 9 knots. The water is muddy and about 2 feet higher than normal. We'd get into the locks and the wind would hit the boat since we were at the top of the lock going down, Lock 8 being the highest point. I was at the helm and Ken would grab a line midship and wrestle control until I could take that line, then he'd grab a bowline and we'd exchange lines, he, literally having to sit down and brace his feet against the cockpit side to hold it, finally able to cleat the line until the lock was closed and the water was released. Once going down, we were more sheltered and okay.

We could have taken a break and waited for better weather, which would have been the smart thing to do, but we opted to continue and fought the next few locks until Waterford.

In Waterford, which is usually a rip roaring place full of boats from the Erie Canal, boats rafting off each other, people milling around, etc, we were shocked to see only 1 other boat and the place looked dead. It was dead. Aug 31st the whole place flooded and we could see damage to houses 2 streets up from the water. The office was closed because it had been flooded; there was no clean water or electricity. However, there were docks to tie to and a bathroom open. And we walked up to Hannafords for some groceries and a few other boats came in, one a 42' Catalina (their 2nd trip to the Bahamas...the first one in a 32' sailboat. The wife said she wouldn't go again unless they had a bigger boat! Hmmm....), another a trawler from Vermont on their way to the Caribbean, and another trawler that hit an obstacle in the Hudson that bent their propeller and they were having it hauled out.

It was so cold we dressed in long underware (thanks, girls, wonderful stuff they're made of!) and foulies. We cooked on the stove which brought the temperature up to 50 degrees inside the boat, and it dropped down to 45 by morning. Lots of condensation on all the ports and hatches.

Lock 5 South Wall, Champlain Canal, Sept 30,2011

We went through 6 locks, which was enough. All went smoothly. We saw 2 sailboats heading north??? Why??? From where?? Another is headed south and is on the north wall. We sat on a bench with drinks and told secrets. No, I am not going to share.

Whitehall, NY Sept 29,2011

We left Kingsland Bay right at 0700 into a gloomy, ominous day. Ken activated the Serius weather and saw a black cloud w/yellow in the middle indicating heavy rain sitting over Whitehall. It started drizzling until past the Champlain bridge,a gorgeous feat of construction, this bridge replacing the old bridge, which they demolished. We saw 2 canoes laden with people and supplies heading down the lake (a group of teenagers on a survival course, we imagined--who else would be in those conditions?)

We kept vigilant during this leg (yes, I had to put down my crossword puzzle book and pay attention) and watched the buoys marking the channel, sometimes not much wider than a stream. K&G hailed us to warn of a powerboat overtaking us, which was a 50-60 foot ocean fishing boat from Pulaski, NY, having to go around the St Lawrence and down the Chambly Canal, Lake Champlain, and now the Champlain Canal due to the Erie Canal being closed. We joked that they were probably griping about the extra couple of hours it took them (versus the extra days it'd take a sailboat).

We got to Lock 12, paid $15 for a 2 day pass, and locked through then tied to the wall at Whitehall, making room for the Lois McClure, a canal boat replica, and a canal tug. There's a beautiful little park with a visitors center with bathrooms and showers, all free. Since it was my birthday, we opted to eat at City Steaks and Seafood in a converted bank building. Great food! I had broiled scallops and we all shared a huge piece of cheesecake for dessert! It was a great birthday.

Up Champlain, Sept. 28, 2011

We headed out at 0900 with a little chop in the inner Malletts Bay and a little more in the outer bay with the wind coming from the south and the waves hitting us on our beam. We were better in the lake heading into the waves, but they kept getting bigger and bigger, the fetch from the south about 50 miles. The bow was crashing into 2-4 footers with spray coming back into the cockpit. With the mast on a cradle, the boat tends to roll if a wave hits it sideways, but it was still uncomfortable hitting them straight on. Katja and Geoff were ahead of us on Blue Planet and they hailed on the VHF. We both agreed to head on to Converse Bay.

Around Point Bay Marina things started calming down and we agreed to continue to Kingsland Bay where we rafted together in perfectly calm conditions. A beautiful night after a rather harried day.