Little Harbour Continued

Little Harbour Sights

Little Harbour

We took 3 days and sailed to Little Harbour and back, the southernmost harbour on the Sea of Abaco. It was a beautiful day for sailing and we leisurely made it to Tiloo Cay anchorage Saturday night and spent a calm night there between fronts, the boat lazily going around in circles.

Sunday morning we got out of the anchorage and pulled up the sails before the rain and winds hit us. Taking a zigzaggy course around the sandbars, we came around in the lee of Pelican Cays where the surge was coming over the reef making a bumpy ride until we got behind Lynyard Cay. The entrance to Little Harbour faces north and with the strong north wind and the surge from the inlet, it looked like one of the Exuma Cays inlets, but little powerboats were coming in and out, bobbing up and down on the waves. And the entrance is shallow, 3 1/2 feet at MLW (mean low water), meaning most boats have to play the tides, and we waited until after midtide to be sure we'd have plenty of depth. Ken got out the directions to go in: head towards the large house on the west hill until in the channel, then turn and head towards the large house across the bay. I concentrated on the chartplotter and the channel and we powered through the waves until we hit the calm bay. We grabbed a mooring, rather a strange affair, looking like a flat disc in the water.

Little Harbour is the home of the late sculptor Randolph Johnston and his family. Sculptures grace the little village.

Marsh Harbour Marina

More howling winds, sounding almost gale force, would rock the boat at night and make the bay fairly lumpy during the day. It’s blowing stink, as Ken said.

The Cruisers’ Net, VHF 68 at 8:15a gives the weather and community announcements every day, plus there’s open mike if there are any concerns. I called in to ask about the lack of a town dinghy dock. One is being built for the first of the year. (Can you believe it? It’s almost 2012!!) Meanwhile there’s a small dinghy dock that the storeowner has allowed the boaters to use close to Mangoes. It’s a hike to da market but doable.

Thursday we came into Marsh Harbour Marina because we needed water and to do laundry. They put us in a slip with the wind, which makes it a little trickier getting in because the wind keeps pushing the boat. Ken said to keep up my speed to keep it on course and let the dockhands catch the boat, so that’s what I did and we were fine. Jason, the dockmaster, was there to help, plus Charles on the boat a couple slips up from us.

Off to do laundry ($6/load--$8/load if not in the marina) and take showers. This is a really nice marina with a pool and The Jib Room, a nice restaurant and bar. I think our company will be pleased.

That night we joined a group of people going to a Christmas songfest at The New Vision Ministries. The talent in this small community was amazing. One 7yo boy got up and sang ‘Jingle Bell Rock’ with a voice bigger than he was.

Marsh Harbour

We anchored in the large bay close to the NE corner near Marsh Harbour Marina. There is evidence of hurricane damage: one sailboat askew on land; the dinghy dock gone. The first day we had a good boat-washing rain. It was Friday and we were entertained by a calypso beat band at Mangos or Curly Tails.

Saturday we dinghied into the dock, now a large, study dock with one ladder and no easy access by dinghies. We walked into town to True Value and The Chemist and Maxwell’s Market then stopped to talk to South Wind, anchored not far from us.

After unloading the dinghy, we went into The Jib Room and had lunch and then walked over to Mermaid Reef. We were disappointed to see the beach enclosed by a fence with No Trespassing, Private Land signs all around. The only access by land is a narrow road with no beach. We walked around to town and stopped to say hi to Southern Heat and some refreshments at Curly Tails.

Sunday and Monday we decided to stay put with the strong NE wind that howled all night. We walked to the castle that overlooks the Sea of Abaco.

Thursday, December 8th, Man-O-War mooring

A generator ran all night. Must have been to the large tug that left at dawn pushing a huge barge through the channel at high tide. Yesterday they tried it and got stuck in the channel, churning up sand and having a hard time getting back into their space at the dock.

We went ashore and walked around to the little quaint shops and the ocean beach and ate lunch at Bradley’s on the Harbour. Spoke to one shopowner about schooling. There are 30 elementary students on Man-O-War and 15 high schoolers, some opting to take the ferry over to Marsh Harbour. Her 2 older children went to college in Florida, both US citizens having been born in the US so there is no problem with getting travel permits through the Bahamas. If not a US citizen, one has to reapply for travel permits every few months. And there are no aid programs to help defer the cost of university.

Met a couple with a Sunsail boat, she from France and he British. We see lots of the Sunsail boats in the Abacos from the Moorings in Marsh Harbour. It’s rather like a timeshare with boats. After chartering one for 5 years, then there’s the option of buying it and one can then reserve a boat anywhere there are Sunsails: the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Bahamas, etc. One wouldn’t have to worry about the maintenance or storage!

Wednesday, December 7th, Man-O-War mooring

Jillian hailed us about 7:30am to say they were on their way. Then Dave hailed us to say they were leaving, too. We hurried up and readied the boat (hoisting the dinghy) and were not far behind. Out the White Sound channel we noticed more buoys and we saw better depth.

Reports were coming in on the condition of the Whale. One boat said there were 4-6’ rollers; another said 3-5’ gentle swells. It didn’t sound bad. If one’s draft is shallow enough, and ours could be at 4’6”, there is another way, the Dont Rock Passage across the bank, which is what the ferry boat does. But, if it’s rough outside, it’ll be rough inside, and it’s very shallow, 2 feet at low tide. One would only want to do that at high tide, adding another 3 feet. We did see a ketch going that way.

The rollers were big in the Whale Cay Channel, we thinking we should have taking our antinausea pills. We followed the chartplotter line and made it past the breakers and into the calmer ocean. Coming into the Loggerhead Channel was calm and easy. We were on the other side!!

The day was gorgeous, sunny and near 80 degrees. We could only think of getting to Man-O-War, picking up the sailslide, taking showers, and possibly getting on the net.

The channel into Man-O-War reminds me of some of the entrances in the North Channel where someone stands on the bow directing the helmsperson to avoid rocks. Ken directed us in and we slowly made our way into the moorings to pick up a white one with a blue stripe, Man-O-War Marina’s moorings. There were 2 available, one by a wide catamaran, and another close to the stern of a sailboat. We chose the one by the catamaran thinking we’d have more room, although all the moorings seem like they are measured to the inch. We all dance around almost, but not quite, touching.

The other mooring ball was behind Windrose, we noticed after we were situated. We met them in the Sassafras River in the Chesapeake and Steve came over to say hi. The cruising world is a small world.

We went in to pay for the mooring, $17/day, which didn’t include showers, $5/each, which we were glad to pay…needed to pay!! Did they feel good!! Ken dinghied to the sailmaker on Dickies Cay and picked up the sailslide, plus a couple of extra.

We have internet on the boat and we did some much needed business and catching up.

Tuesday, December 6th, Green Turtle Cay anchorage

We were debating whether to go into breakfast at Green Turtle Club but could see no activity. We charged the batteries with the generator and listened to the Cruisers’ Net. No ‘Whale’ report, or not what I thought was a report, someone correcting me on the VHF. Then a boat broke in and said they were going around the Whale and it wasn’t that bad. Tomorrow! Probably leave around 10am to time the passage for slack tide.

We dinghied into Green Turtle Club and walked to Coco Beach and the ocean beach. We saw Jillian and Al and agreed we’d contact each other tomorrow when we found out more about the Whale. After GTC we figured we’d check out Bluff House where we saw Beth and Dave from Grateful Attitudes. The last time we saw them we were heading out onto the banks from Hog Cay, Dave leading the way over a very shallow route. He said people still comment about that. They were leaving to go around the Whale tomorrow also, and one of the boats at Bluff House left earlier to go around and would give us a report. (They hailed Beth later and said it was no worse than going out into the ocean at St Augustine on a rough day.) We’d all keep in touch.

Monday, December 5th, Green Turtle Cay, White Sound anchorage

Dinghied into Crab Cay and found a few shells. A boatload of people came in after us, some in dress shoes—I’m not sure how they got ashore. They were having a ceremony to prevent the sell of Crab Cay, one man’s grandmother having lived there in the 1800s and farmed the island.

We saw Baroda and Local Knowledge leaving and a ketch coming in changing their minds and heading into beautiful Coconut Beach cove. We decided it was time to move on. The NE winds were still strong and we motorsailed to Green Turtle to charge the batteries. After slowly motoring through the shallow channel (seeing 6’5” at midtide), we found a spot of sand and dropped anchor. The place looks deserted with only 1 Sunsail boat at Green Turtle Marina, a few at Bluff House, and a few transient boats anchored (many that looked like local boats on moorings). Sad. The last time we were here in the spring of 2009 it was packed with both marinas near full and wall to wall boats in the anchorage. But it is early.

Sunday, December 4th, Manjack Cay anchorage

Finally remembered the Cruisers’ Net at 8:15am, VHF68, and got the weather report from Troy: strong NE winds through Tuesday, abating some on Wednesday, then another front approaching. No ‘Whale’ report.

Once onto the banks in the Abacos, the next thought is getting around the ‘Whale’, an island where we have to go out the Whale Cay Channel and around Whale Cay then onto the banks through the Loggerhead Channel to the other side of the Abacos. Sometimes one can be caught on one side or the other for some time before the weather cooperates. If the weather is wrong, the channel can ‘rage’, a mixed up impossible mess to traverse.

We went ashore again and hiked to Coconut Beach then back to the ocean beach. We met Al from ‘Baroda’ and Bill and talked weather for some time. Bill said there’s been one front after another going through the Bahamas and people have lost their lives going through the inlets when they are raging. Even the supply boat got caught up on a reef and was there 5 days until they could motor it off, it sturdy enough to take the beating.

We went back to the boat and charged the batteries with the generator. We might as well languish here another day….a gorgeous setting, beaches to comb…

Saturday, December 3rd, Manjack Cay anchorage

We could hear the wind which would move the boat around, but there were no big waves and it was fairly comfortable. I had the last of Nancy’s grapefruits for breakfast.

We launched the dinghy in this wind, it blowing all around with Ken trying to hold it while I quickly released the halyard to let it down. We put on the motor, got the anchor, life jackets, put the camera and vhf radio in a waterproof bag (we do learn, sometimes), and I hopped aboard. Ken put the motor into gear and it died! The wind was quickly blowing us away from the boat. I was trying to untangle the anchorline as Ken rowed us back to the boat. One has to be prepared for strong current and winds in the Bahamas. He started the motor again, letting it warm-up for awhile, then we were on our way into a beautiful little beach next to some houses.

We’d heard the owners of Manjack welcomed cruisers but we didn’t know if we were welcome everywhere. A sign on the beach said ‘Pet chickens roaming. Please leash dogs’ so we figured people were expected. Then another sign pointed to the beach and we proceeded. Next we saw a mast! and a walkway. Someone hailed us and we met Bill, the owner, and later his wife Leslie. They’ve lived on the island 20 years, Bill with his boats and Leslie with her gardens.

Rosa and Jillian arrived from the 2 other boats and we walked to the beach with them, where we beach combed for an hour or so. I found a heart sea bean and a sea biscuit and Jillian found a hamburger sea bean. We left them to join Bill and Leslie while we went back to the boat to recover from our long walk!!

Friday, December 2nd, 2011 Manjack Cay anchorage

The winds are to kick up to 20-30K tomorrow through Tuesday. We could hear the wind howling and whistling through the rigging most of the night, but by morning it calmed down.

We went into the ship’s store and marina office to ask about breakfast. The workboat from Coopers Town was just arriving. We were shown the way into the restaurant, seated at a booth—the only 2 customers, of course. The waiter brought a menu: 2 eggs, sausage or ham, homefries, Bahamian bread toasted for $14; an omelet for $16; and 2 other choices. Ken and I both opted for the first choice with coffee. We got the royal treatment and a grand breakfast, plus Ken got to try a piece of Bahamian carrot cake that was more of a brownie, he said.

Back at the boat we filled the water for 30 cents/gallon. I sponged off what salt I could off the stanchions, bimini and dodger frames, and washed all the eisenglass. They were lenient with the checkout time of 11am and after paying our bill, including some Bahamian pineapple rum, 2 mats, and 2 green peppers, and saying goodbye to Dave, Camellia, and Ryder, we were off.

Out into the Sea of Abaco we pulled out the jib and sailed here. It was a relaxing, quiet sail, we being the only boat out in it. Three boats were anchored at Manjack. We chose a spot between Crab Cay and Manjack (pronounced Munjack) that is protected from the NE and E. To celebrate we broke out the pineapple rum. A beautiful anchorage!

Thursday, December 1st, Spanish Cay Marina

Okay, so Ken wasn’t nauseous and didn’t feel seasick. I did and Camellia said she did on Southern Heat, and I felt a little queasy most of the day.

We woke up and looked outside and it looked like we were in the middle of nowhere. We were in the middle of nowhere! Boats had left the anchorage, 2 boats pulling out, leaving Southern Heat, and us. I hailed Dave and Camellia to say we were ready to leave and they said they’d be right behind us. We’d both decided to clear customs at Spanish Cay Marina.

After motoring into the wind around the west end of the cay, Ken pulled up the m’sail to find one of the sail slides was broken, so he pulled it down and tied it. We pulled out the jib rounding the corner and were able to sail with the strong 18-20K north wind. The water was turquoise clear and we’d see dolphins playing at the bow, diving under the boat, coming out of the water, then diving back under. Three stayed in front of the boat for about 5 minutes.

I hailed Spanish Cay Marina to let them know we needed a slip and we’d be clearing customs. We were informed the customs officer would only be there until 4pm. Ken turned on the motor to motorsail, but we were too far away to make it. Dave assured us this would not be a problem. Ken pulled up our yellow quarantine flag.

We pulled into the marina after Southern Heat, taking a slip next to the only other boat there. The place was deserted of boats, not the busy marina like it was when we’d come here in 2008. Later we learned it had been hard hit by Hurricane Irene and most of the docks had to be replaced. We were warmly welcomed by everyone, the deckhand asking if we’d like to eat in the restaurant. We declined but said we’d be in for breakfast. Dave and Camellia went in for supper, the only 2 customers.

The customs officer waited to check both of us in, which was nice of her. Then I rushed off to take a shower. We even have internet on the boat!!

Wednesday, November 30th, Great Sale Cay anchorage!! Bahamas!!

The wind died down about 3:30am. By 7am it looked great. This would put our timing off, getting to Great Sale Cay at night, but it looked like our only opportunity for awhile. I hailed Southern Heat and they were thinking the same thing. South Wind hailed us, but we couldn’t catch the message. It sounded like he’d left, probably when the winds died, and he was on his way. We never caught up with him.

We were underway at 7:30am. Just as we were going out the Lake Worth Inlet, a huge container ship was coming in. We were on our way! Ken kept an eye on the water temperature. When it was a steady 87-88 degrees, we knew we were in the Gulf Stream, plus the water was cobalt blue. And the waves were big, big enough the autopilot couldn’t manage so Ken steered most of the way. We kept wondering when they’d lie down, like Chris Parker predicted, but it wasn’t until early afternoon that it calmed. There were flying fish, their little fins beating fast like wings. Other than that and a couple of ships, one huge mega-cruise ship, we didn’t see anything but Southern Heat’s sails ahead of us. It being rolly, we were both nauseous and avoided going below. It would have been very uncomfortable doing this at night with the waves large and the autopilot unable to manage.

At 4:30pm we were on the Bahama banks! An 8 hour crossing! Yea!! We were still motorsailing with both m’sail and jib, wanting to make our destination ASAP, and going 6.8-7knots with the wind out of the north. Things were going well, even in the dark with not much to guide us but the chart plotter, Southern Heat’s lights ahead, a few dim stars in the cloudy night, and the compass. I was at the helm and Ken was resting in the cockpit when the boat veered off course due to the strong wind. I put the autopilot on standby and tried to get the boat back on course but was completely disoriented by the lack of anything to focus on. Other night crossings, like going up the New Jersey coast and through Lake Erie and Lake Huron, there were lights on the horizon, but here there was nothing. Finally, we got back on course, but furled the jib so the autopilot could manage the wind.

Because of the lack of lights, the lights from the anchorage were visible 5 miles out, and it looked like there were only a couple of boats in there. Southern Heat hailed us to let us know what was in there: a few boats with anchor lights, but some without, which is stupid because this in one anchorage where boats do come in at night. We took down the m’sail right before the anchorage, in the dark. I’d thought of insisting we take it down before dark, but forgot how important that would be. We slowly motored into the anchorage, distances deceptive. We dropped the hook out in the middle far away from any other boat, and still somewhat sheltered from the north wind. What a relief! We were sore and achy, cranky and exhausted and seasick. But we were in the Bahamas!!

Tuesday, November 29th, South Lake Worth anchorage

The wind quieted to nothing and the water was dead calm. It was a peaceful night.

Boats were pulling out of the anchorage and headed south?, we weren’t sure because it certainly hadn’t calmed down outside yet. Some were going to the south anchorage to wait to cross over to the Bahamas, like we were going to do.

We left after a nice lunch, stopping at the Riviera Beach Municipal Marina for fuel, water, and to dispose garbage. We had to wait for a long time for a SeaTow boat to leave, another SeaTow waiting for it. As we were going into the channel to the anchorage, both SeaTow boats were towing MitSeaAH, a huge sailboat we’d seen going into Tidewaters Marina in Norfolk.

Just as we were pulling into the anchorage, a hail went out from Southern Heat for boats wanting to cross to Great Sale Cay tonight. I answered the hail and said we were. This started a discussion among boats about the weather and the crossing. I heard Discovery talking on the VHF about Chris Parker’s report saying the cold front would funnel air down the Gulf Stream building up waves. Marilyn from Discovery read Chris Parker’s report to us, which also said to check Fowlie Rock buoy. South Wind from Alaska chimed in to say he’d be interested in going with our group, if we went. Exuberant was outside on their way to Miami and Prue hailed us to let us know what it was like out there and to call them later to check with them when we were ready to go.

At 6pm the consensus was to go. The weather had calmed, the buoys looked good, but we’d check again at 11pm, our departure time. We readied to leave, putting the dinghy on the bow, fixing pizzas to eat on the way, taking the sailcover off, getting the jacklines ready, and resting as much as possible.

At 10:30pm I turned on the VHF to hear Southern Heat and South Wind discussing the crossing. Southern Heat said the buoys didn’t look good; the wind had kicked up with the waves and Dave thought it a no go. I hailed Exuberant and Burt said he had to veer out into the Gulf Stream to avoid a freighter and it was nasty out there. That decided it. We’d wait. Unfortunately, if we didn’t go now, we probably wouldn’t get a chance for 5 or more days because there was a strong frontal system coming in with strong east winds.

Monday, November 28th, North Lake Worth anchorage

The south winds were predicted to be strong with gusts in the 30K. I’d thought of staying right where we were, protected behind the causeway. We left fairly early into a sunny fairly calm ICW and the south wind did not pick up until almost through the St Lucie Inlet, then it started blowing and kicking up waves that would splash into the dodger. We’d considered anchoring in Peck Lack, where about 10 boats were already anchored, but it really didn’t look too well protected and Ken wanted to continue. The clouds were black all along the west and we would see rain in the distance, but everything dissipated before it reached us, thankfully.

We had 7, yes, 7 bridges to go through! The Hobe Sound Bridge, opening on the hour and every 20 minutes after, which we timed fairly well. Then the 3 bridges, 707 Bridge, Jupiter Federal Bridge, and Indiantown Road Bridge around Jupiter Inlet. Because of the current and wind, we were way off the mark at the Donald Ross Bridge and had to do donuts biding the time. The last 2 were fairly easy. We timed the PGA Bridge fairly well, then it was just 15 minutes and 1.5 miles to the Parker Bridge.

The waves and were kicking in Lake Worth. We followed the markers in the anchorage, which was crowded with boats, and picked a spot. North Lake Worth has large condos with marinas with mega-yachts on the west side and large houses on the east side, so we were somewhat protected from the waves.

Sunday, November 27th, North anchorage, Jensen Beach Bridge

Katja, Geoff, and we said goodbye at Riverside Saturday night. It’s been a long, hard trip and we’ve done well getting this far together. We’ll miss them and are sorry we didn't go to the Bahamas together.

Zzzsplitch…we separated from Vero!! We untangled ourselves from the mooring ball, Plumpuppet in the middle between Interlude and Blue Planet, then waited in line for the fuel dock. After filling up with fuel and water, we were once again on our way, which took a little time to get used to after 10 days on a mooring ball. The day was uneventful, a beautiful, sunny warm Florida day. It was Sunday and we had quite a few powerboats overtake us or meet us, but all were considerate of their wake.

We entered the anchorage carefully and found 6’5” at high tide at one spot. We picked a spot to drop the anchor in the middle and in front of 2 small anchored sailboats. One skipper came up to us in his dinghy and said to anchor farther back from shore because there was a lot of electricity in the water this close to a buried cable, and we would hear a lot of crackles and pops. We up-anchored and anchored in the middle and behind the 2 boats. One other boat came in later.

We could see Nettles Island and Jan and Bob’s condo. I called Jan and waved to them and she said to look for their Christmas tree, but we couldn’t see it. It was a beautiful night and we were sheltered from the south wind behind the causeway.

Thursday, November 24, 2011 Thanksgiving

  I spent all morning cooking, and that’s no fun on a small boat with no counter space, no room to maneuver, a fridge that is so small and deep, that everything has to come out each time I’m looking for something.  I made a double batch of cabbage salad (which was unnecessary because there was soooo much food), deviled eggs that would not peel (so I kept them for our table), and a gelatin cheesecake (only because that cream cheese had been in the fridge almost from the beginning) for us for later.

  At noon Ken and I dinghied over to the park to help set up.  All the tables inside were already claimed so we moved a round table on to the lee side of the building and set it for our group.  Lisa was coming from Ft Lauderdale to join us, and Katja and Geoff and Tom and Cathie would be at our table.  All the boaters converged at the park between 1:30 and 2pm , tying off dinghies to the two small docks or pulling them onto the grass.  An estimate of 150 of us turned out for an amazing buffet of food.  We pigged out and drank our fill of wine (everyone supplied their own), then listened to the live music and talked to other cruisers.  We saw Burt and Prue from Exuberant and they’d been here a week and a half and we hadn’t even seen them! (oh, we were shopping—we didn’t run into them on the buses.)

  Late afternoon we came back to the boat where we could hear the music and eat that gelatin cheesecake. Yes, we apparently had room.  We took Lisa to the dinghy dock and came back and scratched our no-see-em bites.  My legs are peppered with bites.  There is a downside to paradise!

 

 

  

Vero Beach

  Vero Beach, also known as Velcro Beach, because it’s so hard to get away from here.  We’ll be relieved when we actually leave here, although we’ve definitely appreciated being here:  free bus service, wonderful marina where, for $13+ a night, we get the use of laundry facilities, showers, Captain’s lounge, a mooring ball, and to talk to other cruisers.

  We have been stocking the boat with as much stuff as we can use, although shopping in the Bahamas is not the problem it used to be.  There’s a huge market now in Marsh Harbour; Georgetown has a great market; and there are even supplies in the more remote areas.  Ken and I usually try to get the first bus out of the marina, 8:15am, and will go to the Miracle Mile Plaza to Publix, West Marine, and other stores, or take #1 bus to the hub, transfer to #2 bus and go out to the mall, Lowes, Target, or Walmart.  We do spend an inordinate amount of time on the bus, or waiting for a bus.  Then after a day of shopping or finishing a project, of course we need some downtime and will meet for happy hour at the local restaurant, Riverside, where we can take out dinghies and tie up to their dock, or on a boat.

  Boats have been coming and going, depending on the weather.  We were lucky to get in Thursday night before the strong winds hit the area.  The talk is always when the next weather window is and sailors will be chomping at the bit to get going and make it over to the Bahamas.  The first weather window is Tuesday, the 22nd, or Wednesday, the 23rd, so there was a parade of boats leaving Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday.  And then there are boats coming in for Thanksgiving, so as boats are leaving, more are coming to replace them. 

  Sunday we walked the mile, or so, down to the beach, taking a side road where live oaks line the road, some with huge leafed vines going up the trunk and branches.  It’s like a jungle with all the different plants.  We could hear the surf before we saw the ‘white stallions’, yet we still saw boats in the distance heading south.  Nancy and Jim met us at Mulligan’s, driving up from West Palm Beach.  What a treat to see them and spend the afternoon with them!

  Monday after our usual early morning shopping, we waited to hear from Jan and Bob (Jany K) and spent the afternoon with them, visiting their condo on South Hutchison.  I was sold and would move there in a jiffy, if we didn’t have a house in VT to consider!  What a beautiful location and condo!  Then we came back to meet Geoff and Katja at Riverside.

  Tuesday started with our usual early morning shopping.  No matter how many times we go in, it seems  we’re always needing something else and will have to do another shopping trip in the morning!  We’re finally getting this bus system down pat!  One trip I made it to the hub with a group from the marina, and there was no room on the #2 bus to go to Walmart and the Indian River Mall!  We would have to wait an hour for the next bus!  The #9 bus driver beckoned us to come over and said to get on, that it was better to go w/him than stand around for an hour.  He took us to a stop where we caught the #8 bus to the mall.  With the holiday week, we were afraid every day might be like this, but they added and ‘Express’ bus to go to the mall and Walmart, and that helped.  See….our lives are being run by the bus schedule, and here we thought we could get away from this!

  Wednesday, another day of shopping—a long, tedious day of being on buses, changing our phone plan, walking from store to store—exhausting.  Only to cap it off with happy hour on Interlude!  I tell you, cruising is the life!  Oh….we’re stuck in Velcro Beach.  Well, having happy hour every night is the life!

Thursday Nov 17, 2011 Vero Beach mooring ball

  Listening to the weather on NOAA, it sounded forbidding with strong NE winds tomorrow and rough on the ICW.  Hailing Katja and Geoff, we again agreed to go for the SE corner behind the causeway of the Melbourne bridge where we’d be protected from the NE.  Once on our way Ken checked the radar and a huge band of storms were 50 miles north of us and moving south.  I hailed Blue Planet to see what they wanted to do and we agreed to confer again after going through the Addison Bridge.

  Once past the bridge we hashed over possibilities.  We were getting a big push from the current and we could possibly go to Vero Beach even with our late start.  I called the marina to ask if there’d be a mooring ball for tonight and said we might be arriving late.  They would have one waiting for us, although we’d have to raft with another boat, making 3 on the mooring ball, which is norm for the busy Thanksgiving.  We agreed to confer again once near the Melbourne bridge. We’d pulled out the jib and were getting a boost from that, plus the boost from the current, so we agreed to go to Vero.  There would be no possibilities of anchoring, so it was a go, and we were hoping we’d be there before dark.  We hailed the marina a mile away and they told us our mooring and the boat we’d raft to, and we were able to pull in and get situated just as it turned dark.  Whew!  It was a long hard day sitting in that cockpit all day, reading a book, with the sun beating down!!

 

  

Wednesday, Nov 16, 2011 Titusville anchorage

  As we were preparing to leave, one large sailboat motored past and yelled at Ken that the anchorage got shallower every year.  There were numerous boats anchored without any sign of crew, and one sailboat was listing at low tide.  We were happy to leave and took off about 7:20am.

  Going around Ponce Inlet 'Vulcan' was hailing Blue Planet, but they didn’t respond so I answered the hail.  The skipper proceeded to say how he went aground on that same shoal when leaving St. Augustine and we were joking about needing to read instructions.  Then on to George Musson Memorial Bridge where it opens every 20 minutes, only I’d forgotten about that and thought it was on request, so we had to putter around for nearly 20 minutes.

  Motored on through Mosquito Lagoon and the Haulover Canal Bascule Bridge where numerous little fishing boats were anchored.  Coming up in the spring of 2009 we’d seen wild flamingoes on the island, but none this fall.  We love all the birds.  The terns soar around then will flutter just above the water before they make a straight dive in and out.  The brown pelicans plunge into the water with a belly flop which looks like it could hurt until I read they have air pockets in their breasts that they inflate before the dive.

  On into the Indian River and the anchorage at Titusville.  The marina had put in a mooring field that takes up some of the anchorage area, but there is plenty of room north of it. We anchored by a boat that looked like it had been abandoned with torn sailcovers.

It was a beautiful, hot, sunny day and a beautiful evening.

Tues, Nov 15, 2011 Daytona anchorage

  There was no fog.  Katja and Geoff were off for showers.  We hauled out the dinghy motor and put the dinghy on the deck and were ready to leave, heading out about 7:50.  I was at the helm and immediately grounded us on a shoal right outside the mooring field.  To my credit, there was no indication of it on the chart plotter, but Skipper Bob mentioned it and Geoff said he’d been warned of it when he stopped at the dock.  And we were aground!, in less than 4’, and we draw about 4 ½ feet.  So….we sat there.  And sat there.  I called the marina and they said back out into the mooring field.  We tried that every few minutes and would really gun it on a passing wake, to no avail.  Finally we figured we were backing into the shoal and Ken went forward and got us off, after an hour of rising tide.  We knew we could get off eventually with the 5’ tide, but didn’t want to wait forever.  We were even considering staying another day, if it got any later.

  Florida is a straight shot south, which is nice because progress is fast, but it tends to be rather boring.  We had 4 bascule bridges to go through but all were accommodating and fast.  Came into the anchorage field south of the Memorial Bridge and anchored next to Blue Planet.  There was only 8-9 feet of depth, not the 14 feet shown on the chart plotter.  It was a beautiful, calm, peaceful night.

Monday, Nov 14, 2011 St Augustine

  Let’s see.  Went into the marina early and then out to breakfast at a little café on Avenida Menendez.  Checked out where the internet café was at Casa Monica Hotel.  Ken asked the marina personnel about discarding oil—they have a place at the marina.  After working on the blog and Ken fixing the ‘looky bucket’ and eating lunch, we went back to post the blog at the internet café and met Katja and Geoff there.

  We agreed to meet at a pizzeria for supper and were there at happy hour when drinks were 2 for 1 and 10” pizzas were $5 off plus they gave each of us a free slice of pizza!!  Talk about a deal!!  And it looked like the word was out to all the boaters.  Debi and Kevin from Grace were stopping at a bar across from the marina for raspberry beer so we had to stop there, also.

  We talked about what to do in the morning, whether to plan on spending another day in St Augustine with a dense fog predicted in the morning, or continue on.  The consensus was to check it out in the morning and make a decision then.

Sunday, Nov 13, 2011 St Augustine mooring ball

  We dawdled around until 9am leaving only 1 boat in the anchorage, and it looked like they were planning on staying.  It was high tide and everything was flooded, the ICW impossible to discern without the markers.  I called St Augustine Municipal Marina to see what side of the Bridge of Lions our mooring balls would be.  I’d requested the south side to get us through the bridge, and they appointed us #16 and #17 on the south side.

  We debated whether to try to make the 11am opening of the bridge, and finally made a run for it, as well as a sailboat can make a run for it, although we did get the benefit of the current coming in from St Augustine Sound and went through the bridge with a large trawler.  Blue Planet went to the dock first and we headed to our mooring.  After lunch we headed into the marina to sign up, take showers, do laundry, and catch up on the internet, only to find the marina’s internet was defunct.

  Later we went out for supper at the A1A Ale House then walked around historic St Augustine, but were in for the night at 7:30.  We could hear partying all around us and the dinghy dock was full of late (?) revelers.

  Oh, waiting for Ken and to do the laundry, a mother manatee and baby were under one of the dock bridges.  We’d never seen them so close and they looked like 2 blobs, the mother huge, over 1000 pounds.  We were all gawking down at them, and would see the baby come up for air, but the mother didn’t move.  Much later I saw through the lounge window her flipping her tail and leaving. 

 

  

Saturday, Nov 12, 2011 Pine Island anchorage

  Leaving early, 7am, we motored out the anchorage past 2 boats at the entrance, a large trawler and sailboat that looked like they’d come in from the Atlantic.  The trawler weighed anchor and passed us in Cumberland Sound and headed out to the Atlantic.  We stopped at Fernandina Harbor Marina for fuel and water and to discard our garbage.  It was early and a beautiful day and we decided we’d try for this anchorage instead of the nearer one at Ft George River.  I hailed Richard on Kilissa to get his advice about this anchorage and he said it had good depth on entrance and in the anchorage.

  Through Sisters Creek Bascule Bridge into the St Johns River, and on under 2 hi-rise bridges with very strong current.  Boats were anchored before the 2^nd bridge to wait for slack tide.  The current was so strong, we were down to 2.4mph before we got through.  One boat said there were waves 3 feet high when they saw a boat pass, so they anchored and ate lunch and waited.

  We knew we were in Florida through the long straight canal with huge homes on one side, some with screened in yards.  We came in here seeing no less than 10 feet at the entrance and anchored in 9 feet with one boat in front of us and one boat behind, with Blue Planet between.  Our last beautiful, secluded, unique anchorage!—until the Bahamas, anyway.  It was a beautiful evening only marred by a loud open small helicopter buzzing past.  All of us sailors stood in our cockpits and waved to the pilot.

  I made a l pot meal out of James Barber’s One Pot Wonders.  And plugged up the sink with the sand from the Cumberland shells.  Ken had to use the air horn to unplug it—which worked!!  I never did tell him how it got plugged.  Shhh.

Friday, Nov 11, 2011 (11/11/11) Cumberland Island anchorage

Happy birthday, Morgan!

  I was up early to light the alcohol stove and check the anchorage.  All 3 of us boats had weathered the wind and were sitting in the same spots.  The morning was calm and sunny.  We heard the moorings in Fernandina Beach were miserable with 3 foot waves coming into the mooring field.  We were much better off in our little anchorage.

  We left the anchorage late morning and anchored across from the Sea Camp Ranger Station.  After we got settled, a whole line of boats came into the anchorage.  We ate lunch then launched the dinghy and went ashore.  The Ranger Station was closed for the season but there was a ferryload of school children and other children camping.  We saw no armadillos—do they hibernate??  Walked to Dungeness Ruins and saw horses all over the fields.  Then on to the cemetery and beach where the walkways took us past some marsh at low tide and a large flock of egrets and ibis were feeding in a tidal pool.  I also saw a ray stirring up the mud and coming up to feed.

  Walked along the beach and gathered shells, Shark Eye, Lightning Whelk, and Fig Whelk.  Lots of horseshoe crabs of all sizes washed up along with the shells.  Children were playing in the surf, some in jeans and shirts.  We took the long walk up the Sea Camp Beach then through the forest of live oaks laden with Spanish moss, almost blocking out the light.  After a rest in the rocking chairs at the Ranger Station, we converged on Blue Planet for drinks.  It was a beautiful, calm, peaceful night—quite a change from the previous night.

Thursday, November 10th, 2011 Delaroche Creek anchorage

  Another early start to get the benefit of the high tide and through the trouble spots, we hoped.  Little Mud River, the notorious trouble spot of Georgia, gave us no problem at high tide, with the water overflowing its banks.  We saw nothing less than 12’, but with an 8 ½’ tide, that would make it less than 4’ at low tide.  White birds were conspicuously perched in the trees—mostly ibis but also some egrets.  A bald eagle regally sat on a high branch.  And white pelicans were sunning on the banks.  A large,50’, trawler passed us on the Mackay River and we later heard them being boarded by the Coast Guard, something that happens on a regular basis for them to check safety gear, or whatever they want.

  Through Buttermilk Sound and on down the Mackay River where we had planned to drop the hook, only it was early and I suggested we continue.  Geoff was worried about the tide in Jekyll Creek.  I said we’d be ahead of them and give them the depths.  Through St Simons Sound and into Jekyll.  It wasn’t low tide yet, but the entrance was ominous with exposed oyster beds and rocks.  We stayed on VHF channel 17 and I relayed the depths as we went through with no less than 7+ feet, but mostly around 12 feet.  Jekyll Island looked inviting with the mansions and beautiful beaches and boats were at the marina, tied down for the impending strong north winds. 

  Through Jekyll Sound then almost out into the ocean to get through St Andrews Sound, but all was sunny and calm until we turned into Cumberland River and the wind started kicking up with black clouds in the west.  We were debating what river to drop the hook and had some advice from another boat to go into here.  None of them were going to give much wind protection being streams surrounded by marsh, although they would be protected from building waves.  A large trawler also came into the anchorage and I wondered how well they’d fare in the 30K predicted winds with a small craft advisory on the ICW.

Wednesday, Nov 9th, 2011 New Teakettle Creek anchorage

  We left early to catch the high tide through Hells Gate.  As you can imagine, just the name scares boaters.  At high tide, it was no problem.  On through the long Sapelo Sound into Creighton Narrows and here.  It was a short day. 

  The anchorage was beautiful.  A powerboat came in and anchored farther on and all we could see was the top of it over the marsh, looking like they were sitting right in the middle of the marsh.  2 other sailboats came in.

  Traveling the ICW, the VHF radio is the means of communication, and channel 16 is the channel of distress, safety and calling frequency. The United States Coast Guard will regularly transmit information, saying:  ‘Securite, securite, securite.  All stations, all stations, all stations.  This is the United States Coast Guard (Charleston) sector.  This is the United States Coast Guard (Charleston) sector.  This is the United States Coast Guard (Charleston) sector.  Break.  Information regarding the (Charleston Harbor) will be transmitted on channel 22 alpha.’  Then you go to channel 22 and listen to the broadcast.  Sounds like a foolproof plan.  The only problem is most of it is completely incomprehensible with loud echoing in the background, or the person talking too fast, there is no way to follow it.  If there’s an emergency broadcast, the Coast Guard will say the same, except start it with ‘Pan pan, pan pan, pan, pan.’  One would think this would perk up any boater, only usually, again, the message is incomprehensible.  ‘Mayday’ is used when there is grave and imminent danger and immediate assistance is needed.

Tuesday Nov 8th, 2011 Vernon River, GA anchorage

  We weighed anchor at 8am and came onto the ICW right as a barge was coming towards us.  Luckily it was wide at that part of the river, but I would not want to meet them in any narrow section, like Fields Cut, our first narrow section of the day.  A large trawler overtook us in Fields Cut, and then stopped cold just as he got into the Savannah River.  We couldn’t see what was going on, and were about to overtake him when a large containership came around the corner!  We quickly backtracked.

  On to our first bridge of the day, Causton Bluff Bascule Bridge, which is on demand and seemed very accommodating.  And on past Thunderbolt Marina where Mirabella V was docked.  Her mast is so tall, I heard she was unable to get under the Golden Gate Bridge!, and she charters for $250,000/wk plus fuel and food!!

  The second and last bridge in Georgia was Skidaway Narrows Bascule Bridge, and we could see they were replacing it with a hi-rise.  Then on to this anchorage up the Vernon River by the little village of Beaulieu where the trees sheltered us from the strong north wind.

Monday Nov 7th, 2011 New River, SC anchorage

  We’d decided to leave late, 10am, to get some help with the current down the Beaufort River and still have good tide most of the way.  It was a beautiful day, warm and sunny, and going around Hilton Head seeing a beautiful beach and impressive homes was nice.  A large cruise boat was coming into the Sound.  Then on past Daufuskie Island (gullah for ‘the first key’), through narrow Ramshorn Creek, around the long shoal and into here, a perfect wide anchorage, with not much protection from wind, just marsh and grass, but very peaceful.

  Later at dusk the cruise boat came through the ICW, so wide, we wondered how it could get through the cuts.  We saw its lights slowly moving over the marshland towards Savannah.  And Savannah’s lights shone in the distance.  Two more boats came into the anchorage, one a solo sailor in a small boat with no dodger or bimini for protection on his way to the Bahamas. 

Sunday, Nov 6th, 2011, Port Royal Landing

  It was a day of shopping.  We all went to Super Walmart, West Marine, Piggly Wiggly, then over the bridge to Grayco Hardware on Ladys Island to fill G&K’s propane tank.  As soon as we got back, I started making pizzas so we’d have enough for supper and lunch tomorrow and our propane ran out!  Ken ran into Grayco again and got our tank filled.  The Port Royal Landing Marina is very generous with their courtesy cars…well, trucks.

  Katja and I went over Georgia and a schedule so we’d be at the trouble spots at high tide.  Tom from Perseverence2 stopped by to ask if we’d meet them at Back Porch Grille at 5pm.  We all had a great time telling war, oops, I mean, sailing stories.

Saturday, November 5th, 2011 Port Royal Landing

  Awful night.  Due to the strong north wind and the current, the boat got butt slapped until about 2am when the tide changed.  It sounded like the boat was going to fall apart.  Ken looked to see if we could move the boat, but without help, there was no way.  I fell asleep early and woke when it grew quiet!, then didn’t sleep well after that.  I waited until dawn to walk the long dock to the shower.

  When I came back 2 deckhands, Ken, Geoff, and Katja were turning Blue Planet to put her bow into the wind and decrease the butt slapping.  It was all they could do to hold the boat, but they managed and it was a relief for them and the boat to be pointed into the wind.  Then it was Plumpuppet’s turn, and I panicked!  There was no way I wanted to be a part of bringing her around the end of the dock, near the bridge pilings, buffeted by the winds and the current, onto the inside.  I grabbed the backpack, stuffed in the computer, and left for the marina office.  Poor Katja was left to hand the lines to the men, but Ken said it was easy.  They held the bow at the end of the dock, the wind and waves pushed the stern out, Ken motored out and they pulled him around and the wind pushed him over to the dock.  By the time I got back, Ken had the electric reconnected and the boat buttoned down.

  We four took the courtesy car, or truck, into Beaufort and walked around the historical district looking at the impressive antebellum homes.  And then on to some shopping and back to the marina.  We met a family with 2 girls on their way to the Bahamas.  Blue Planet came into a protected slip close to us.  Later we all went to the First Annual Beaufort Pirate Festival at Back Porch Grill where most everyone, but us, was dressed in outrageous pirate costumes and a live band played outside in the cold and wind.  We stood under a propane heater and listened to the music.

 

Friday, November 4th, Port Royal Landing Marina

  When we finally actually got up about 6am, I noticed the boat next to us was gone, and we thought they’d left early, which we thought would be too early to allow for the tide at the Ashepoo-Coosaw Cut.  Oh well.

  Later Geoff hailed us and asked if we saw where the boat had dragged past us during the night, so we looked out our little peephole in the companionway boards and there they were!  Right behind us!  Luckily they didn’t drag into us during the night!  They were in the process of reanchoring.  Later they were not too far from Blue Planet when they came out into the Coosaw River, and the waves must have stirred up the sediment in their fuel tank which caused the motor to stop, and they had to anchor right there in the wild Coosaw!  After TowBoat US towed them here, we noticed their jib was chewed up.  They did not have a good day!

  On NOAA on the VHF gusts of 35K were reported in the South Edisto River, right where we were going.  Again, to allow for some tide, we got underway at 10am, with Blue Planet a little after us, allowing for some strong gusts to pass before they weighed anchor.  The South Edisto was windy but the waves weren’t too big, so it wasn’t bad.  It was skinny at Fenwick Cut and we hailed Blue Planet to warn them to stay on the green side.  Then on to the Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoffs.  The first was fine with plenty of water, but the second was very shallow with a reading of only 5’8” at the end going into the Coosaw.  I warned Geoff to slow down and we got out into the Coosaw where the strong NW wind had built the waves and we’d plow right into them and they’d crash over our dodger.  Ken went below to don all his foulies and goggles, even putting handwarmers in his Gill foul weather gloves.  6 miles of that slosh and we were sick of it.

  Finally we turned into Brickyard Creek and came to Ladies Island Swing Bridge which only opens on the hour now, and not at 8am, noon, or 5pm.  At least it opens!!  Last time we came south it was closed for a day and we went into the Ladies Island Marina for a night.  We hailed Port Royal Landing and they put us on the outside dock.  They’d offered an inside dock but with the wind and the current and so near the bridge abutments, we were leery of turning the tight corner into it.

  After Blue Planet came in and tied up behind us, we all met at the Back Porch Grille for drinks and appetizers and to hash over our experiences for the day.  One couple introduced themselves and we’d recognized them from the VHF.  They’d made it to the Ladies Island Swing Bridge right after 11am and had to wait until 1pm for the next opening.  10 minutes before, their motor stopped and they threw out an anchor and had to call TowBoat US to tow them here.

  Later that night an Island Packet sailboat came in to tie up at the dock.  They were headed outside but said they were being beaten up by the wind and waves, so turned around to dock for the night.  We are going to be here 3 nights, taking the marina up on their 3 for 2 special. 

 

Thursday, November 3rd, South Edisto River anchorage

  This morning was a 10am departure to allow for some higher tide.  We went through the Wappoo Creek Bascule Bridge, and then followed the line of boats through Elliott Cut where we zoomed through at 8K.  Then on down the magenta line to this anchorage where 5 boats, including us two, anchored.  The weather was predicted to deteriorate with the wind clocking around from the south to the NW and we woke up at 3am to screeching winds and loud waves buffeting the boat.  Everytime either one of us would get up, we’d check the anchor lights of all the boats around us to see if we were dragging, and all seemed in place.

Wednesday, Nov 2nd, City Marina, Charleston

  We followed Subtil out the creek and Kitty Hawk, another sailboat, came up behind us.  It was a little shallow at DeeWees Creek, but fine after that.  Dolphins were playing in the water and would swim beside our boat.  All of us converged at the Ben Sawyer Swing Bridge and Kitty Hawk hailed the bridgetender.  I think it’s the same bridgetender as last time with the attitude:  ‘Like I said, Captain, as soon as all of you boats north of the bridge get here, I’ll open it.’  None of us made a peep after that.

  When all of us got up to the bridge and we went through, I said, ‘Plumpuppet clear. Thanks for the opening.’  Then I hear, ‘Plumpuppet, what are the names of the 2 sailboats in front of you?’  I tell her ‘Kitty Hawk and Subtil’.  Then she asks me the name of the 2^nd boat again, so I spell ‘Subil’.  Neither boat chimed in.  Blue Planet identified themselves.

  We proceeded across Charleston Harbor and hailed City Marina.  They met us on the long, 3000+ft megadock and we both tied up on the outside, which was fine and not too bumpy for the night.

  After showers and lunch we met in town and checked out some galleries, ate at the Noisy Oyster, and stopped at a few of the numerous churches.  Jan and Bob called to say they’d arrived at the City Marina so we stopped there for a drink before going to our boats at the end of the long megadock, past all the mega yachts, many 150’ long!

Tuesday, November 1st, 2011 Whiteside Creek anchorage

  We left at 9am to let the tide rise a little.  It was skinny, 7feet, just getting out of Minim Creek into the ICW, and again at Fourmile Creek Canal, where we stayed too far to the green and a sailboat met us under sail at the turn!  And here there were 4 boats southbound in that strong north wind!

  Across from McClellanville we noted where we’d grounded coming up last time (due to our fault—cut the corner and were on the wrong side of the marker).  We came into Whiteside Creek at high tide, which is confusing because there are no indications where the banks are.  Last time we’d come in at low tide and watched the oyster catchers on the banks.  This time we’d see them fly by and hear their ‘ghee, ghee, ghee’ cry, but were sorry Katja and Geoff would not see their bright red bills picking among the oysters.  Two other boats came into the anchorage, one, Subtil, that we’d met at Elizabeth City.

Monday, October 31st, Halloween! Minim Creek anchorage

  We followed Bob and Jan in Jany K out into the ICW with Blue Planet after us.  Traversed the remote Waccamaw River where there had been huge rice plantations before the Civil War, but nothing remained of them.  Ships would come into the river with round ‘Belgian stones’ as ballast and would remove that along the banks to put in the rice.  None of the stones could be seen at high tide and most have been removed, some used in the cobblestone streets in Charleston.  We did see a bald eagle. 

  Through Winyaw Bay pass Georgetown where we heard on the VHF the anchorage was full, then into the Western Channel (no alligators—must be too cold) and a 90 degree right turn into Estherville Minim Creek Canal.  The anchoring was tricky with the north wind in one direction and the current in the other.  Ken said the anchor was sitting side saddle.

  The batteries weren’t charging and Ken had to replace a broken wire on the alternator.  It was very cold and windy outside but toasty inside because I made porkchops and steamed veggies.

Sunday October 30th, 2011 Osprey Marina

  Very cold…saw 30 on the boat with frost on the sailcover in the morning.  Put in some washing then Miles, the dockmaster, offered to drive us to the grocery story.  Katja and I took him up on it and he regaled us with stories coming and going.  Yesterday after a 9hour day, I didn’t know my starboard from my port and had directions from Miles how to get into the marina.  I was trying to relay directions to Geoff and got it all mixed up, finally telling him to just follow us in.  Miles had been following the conversation and hailed Blue Planet to give him precise directions, which was good.  He was impressed with me getting into the slip, though.  It was a tight squeeze with only 1 boat separating us from the bank and I gently brought the boat right in there.  He was calling me Captain Ron after that…..

  I asked everyone over to our boat for happy hour.  The boat was spotless and I’d made hot artichoke dip.  Even though it was chilly, we stayed in the cockpit, eventually bringing out blankets and even the little heater.

Saturday October 29th, Osprey Marina, Myrtle Beach, SC

   Because we couldn’t get wifi on the boat, we got up early to have breakfast at the restaurant and to check the 2 doubtful inlets.  The crabmeat, roasted red pepper, and goat cheese omelets were delicious!  However, the wifi was questionable and we gave up.  Since we’d be leaving near high tide none of us thought the inlets would be a problem. 

  Lockwood’s Folly Inlet and Shallotte Inlet were no problem, seeing no less than 14’.  Shallotte was where we’d grounded on the way south last time, but we were going through at low tide and grounded in 2’ of water!  It was cold and foggy and a foggy mist was rising off Lockwood’s Folly Inlet; the fog didn’t lift until the New River where we met 2 huge casino boats.

  We went through the New River Swing Bridge; stayed together through the Rockpile, a very narrow channel where there is not enough room to meet a barge.  I gave a ‘security, security, security’ call on VHF 16 to say we were southbound and any traffic northbound to hail us.  No one did and we met no one except a couple small powerboats.  Then on to Barefoot Landing Bridge and finally Socastee Bridge, which was extremely slow, making us wait for a catamaran and sailboat.

We came into this very protected marina, almost 55miles—a long day.  Jan and Bob, formerly from s/v Banshee, now m/v Jany K, met us and we converged on their boat later for drinks and camaraderie. 

 

Friday, October 28th, 2011 St. James Marina, Southport, NC

  In the morning all the boats were dancing on their anchorage.  We were close to 2 trawlers that dance completely differently than sailboats.  Argos, from Sydney, would ride up on their anchor and we would ride way down on ours, both boats coming very close together.  It could get a little nerve wracking….however, we’d seen it all before the first time in Wrightsville when the rode got wrapped around our keel and we were the only boat not dancing.  I’d sit at the stern and literally push boats off.  And in St Augustine one boat was on all rope rode and everyone else was on chain.  That boat would dance all over the place, coming really, really close to one boat, then dance in the opposite direction and come very close to another boat.  And no one was on the boat!

  The consensus in the anchorage was to wait for the ebbing tide with the north wind in Cape Fear River.  We agreed to leave at 9am. We got through Snows Cut then into Cape Fear River with a 20K north wind.  The waves seemed manageable, however as we proceeded the waves got larger and it was harder to control the boat, and we had 10+ miles of this!  It was a relief to turn off it into the more protected channel. Then the tide was against us and it was slow progress to the marina.

  We all met for drinks and supper and shared stories and all our experiences.  This is why we’re doing all this work!!  Then we’ll have something to share with people!  And to meet such interesting people.

Thursday, October 27th, 2011 Wrightsville Beach

  There were 14 boats in the anchorage.  Katja and Geoff came in just before the sun set behind them.  It had been a beautiful night in a very protected anchorage, but we could hear the wind in the rigging.

  We agreed to leave early, 7:45am, to make the 11am hourly opening of the Surf City Swing Bridge, a whole line of us.  And then Figure Eight Island Bridge, opening on the hour and half-hour, and, finally, the Wrightsville Beach Bridge, another hourly bridge.  To time these bridges was tricky so as not to have too much time circling waiting for them to open.  We were early for the Wrightsville Beach Bridge, not wanting to take any chances, because last time coming south they didn’t wait for us to get through, and we had to anchor and wait an hour for it to open. So we circled; some boats would edge up in line and not leave us too much room to circle.  One time Ken jerked the helm to port, not realizing he had got so close to the edge of the channel and was in 4’6”.  The trawlers and powerboats came right up front, no matter what, and one was in front of Blue Planet, then stopped right in the middle of the bridge opening and sidled over to a dock, using their side thrusters, with total disregard for the boats behind him.

  We slowly proceeded through the Motts Channel and to the anchorage at Wrightsville Beach.  Blue Planet went through Shinn Creek and came up the Banks Channel to the anchorage.  The wind was still blowing from the north; we were fairly protected in the anchorage.

Wednesday, October 26th, 2011, Mile Hammock Bay, Camp LeJeune, NC

  Happy Birthday, Jeremy!

  We made it through the 9am opening of the Beaufort Bridge, then through the turning basin into Morehead City and out into Bogue Sound.  Just before hailing the bridgetender on VHF 13, Warship 44 announced on VHF 16 she was leaving Morehead City and to give her plenty of space, that any boat coming within 100 yards could be stopped.  When we got into the channel we could see the huge outline of the ship, which was, luckily, out the inlet.

  The current was with us until Bogue Inlet and we made good mileage even against the 15K SW wind.  High tide was early so we would be going through some of the inlets at near low tide.  Geoff and one of the boats ahead of us kept up a running commentary of the depths and Browns Inlet with the dredge near the middle of the channel proved the most challenging.  We turned into Mile Hammock Bay and 14 boats are anchored here for the night, which might not be too quiet because the marines are doing some type of night maneuvers with the Osprey.