On our way

We headed out from Vermont in lovely fall weather, not the winter freeze that would make us wish for sun and sand. Visiting friends on the way, Gayle and Chris Hill in PA, and Bev and Ken Taubenfeld in FL, we made it to Vero Beach and checked into the condo. Yes, condo. We're spending Christmas with our family and a boat is no place for an active toddler. Ken will prepare the boat while I entertain daughter and granddaughter on the beach. I will post pictures when I can figure out how to on the iPad.

Crossing the Gulf Stream

Saturday, March 17th, St Pat's Day, we hailed John and Lois on Astar, and were on our way at 7am. A small stream of boats, Plumpuppet, Astar, Whispah, Chris Deke, Free Spirit, headed around the Whale to the other side of the Sea of Abacos and motorsailed on to Great Sale. Other boats joined the parade, some stopped at Great Sale overnight or for a few hours before continuing, some stopped on the lee side of Mangrove Cay, and some, like us, opted to continue without stopping. We had all intentions of stopping for 4-5 hours at Great Sale but were on a roll: the weather was perfect, we were making good time, why stop? We got to the edge of Little Bahama Bank and Memory Rock about 3am and headed out into the Gulf Stream. We could hear chattering on the VHF off and on; heard the group at Mangrove having a hard time finding the little island in the dark then heard Astar, who stopped at Great Sale, reconnect with them early in the morning. We and Astar were the only ones of the group headed to Lake Worth Inlet.

We motorsailed most of the way, pulling out a reefed jib with the wind behind us in the Gulf Stream. The Florida coast skyscrapers could be seen way off in the distance and it seemed to take forever to traverse the last few miles with the current against us. Just as we were about to enter the inlet, we were hit by a rain squall and 22K winds. The waves were already large with the fetch and the east wind. It being Sunday, and it's best to stay put in Florida if possible on weekends, a large trawler barreled past us leaving a huge wake just as we got in the inlet, and it was followed by 2 smaller powerboats also trying to avoid the rain. Boats were going all which ways; seadoos were jumping the wake; 2 small seadoos were slowly going out the inlet seemingly oblivious of the bedlam around them. We thankfully found a spot to drop the hook in the south anchorage, settled in and slept. We'd been going for 31.5 hours straight!

Barefoot Man

Wednesday, March 14th, we sailed over to Fishers Bay, Great Guana Cay and got a great spot fairly close to the beach and Grabbers. John on Piscator was on a mooring next to us. We joined the crowd for Wednesday Night Potluck at Grabbers. Thursday we and Chris and Mike from Missing Link enjoyed a great lunch at Nippers--cracked conch for me, grilled wahoo for Ken. The anchored boats in the bay ballooned from about 20 to 60!

Barefoot Man was a blast! The crowd was of two groups: teenage grandchildren in bikinis and oldsters wishing they were teenagers in bikinis. Later we joined the Marsh Harbour Marina crew at Orchid Bay Marina for a fishfry potluck. We readied the boat for our departure around the Whale and on to Great Sale for crossing the Gulf Stream.

Marsh Harbour

I tried to do this from memory. Ha! To begin again: We spent a week and a half in Marsh Harbour, sometimes on the boat all day because of strong winds and not wanting to leave the boat and get wet going in to the dinghy dock. Monday, March 5th, was a beautiful, calm day after the tempest of the day before. Sailors converged on the dinghy docks and the little town was busy with shoppers. Tuesday, March 6th, Ken's birthday,and Wednesday were both windy days spent on the boat. Finally, Thursday we dinked into the Jib Room for lunch, met Chris and Mike (Missing Link), and reconnected for Mexican Train. Chris, Mike, Jill, Carolyn, and I would meet most afternoons for our daily game.

Thursday is potluck happy hour at the Jib Room and we met and talked to a lot of other cruisers. Barefoot Man would be coming to Nippers on Great Guana Cay March 16-18. We would stay for that and leave for the States as soon after as we could. Ken checked with another eye doctor at the Auskell Medical Centre on Friday. Saturday coming back from shopping the dinghy motor quit. Monday Ken took it in to B&D Marine where the mechanic cleaned the carbeurator for $70, a steal, according to one sailor who took his motor into the Yamaha mechanic who insisted on ordering another carbeurator--$600. I hitched rides to Mexican Train with Jill and we'd go in bucking 30K winds and rain storms!

Abacos

Friday, March 2nd, we checked out of Nassau Yacht Haven; the dockmaster threw us our lines, then we called Nassau Harbour Control for permission to leave the harbour. Unfortunately a cruise ship, Disney’s Dream, was coming in and we had to wait until it docked to leave. We finally received permission to leave, cruised past the huge hotels on Paradise Island, and the anchorage where we waved at Silent Wings, and were out! We hoisted all our sail, and had a glorious sail to Royal Island Harbour in Eleuthera, with a steady 12K on the beam the whole way.

Saturday March 3rd, we left right at dawn, motored out of the harbour into a strong SE wind which had kicked up large waves on the shallow Eleuthera banks. A large sailboat had anchored right outside the harbour and must have spent a miserable hobby-horse night. Been here. Done that. No fun. Another sailboat was anchored closer to Egg Island. Once outside Little Egg Island Cut, it calmed down and we thought we’d have an easy 50 miles to Little Harbour Inlet in the Abacos. It was not to be. Once out into the Northeast Providence Channel the waves were huge, way over our boat, although the interval between them was fairly long so we’d bob up and down them, but never were able to adjust our sails since they were behind us. I was worried about going through the Little Harbour Inlet with the SE swell and possibly missing the incoming tide, but it wasn’t bad just missing high tide by 30 minutes. We anchored at Spencer’s Point protected from the south wind with the catamaran that came over with us and a small sailboat with 4 young men that looked like they were enjoying themselves.

Sunday March 4th we were going to wait until Cruisers’ Net at 8:15am to leave. We could tell the wind was picking up; the small sailboat had left. All ready, we heard on Cruisers’ Net of possible gale force winds to arrive at Marsh Harbour around noon. We upped anchor and were on our way, pulling out the jib and were making 6-7 K with the wind gusting up to 30K. We thought we’d grab a mooring at Hope Town then heard there were 39 boats in there and, it being Sunday, I couldn’t rouse any marina to see if anything was available. We even entertained going on to the protected harbour at Treasure Cay, where, later we heard, there were 20 boats anchored.

On to Marsh Harbour. Almost to the harbour, pounded by gusts up to 36K, with waves breaking over the dodger into our faces, we caught up with the small sailboat, Sabrina III, and the 4 young men started lobbing water balloons with a sling at us! The resiliency of youth!

We slowly made our way into the roiling harbour, found a space, dropped the hook among about 50 boats, and waited the front. On the VHF people were announcing the approach of the storm: West End, Freeport. Then we saw a line of dark grey to the west, tied down the sailcover and awaited the storm, which hit with a vengeance upping the depth of the water considerably. All the boats held and we clocked around to the NW. It is to stay windy for the next few days.

Nassau Again

Silent Wings and we anchored on the lee side of Highbourne Cay. Boats kept coming in during the evening until there were about 20 boats anchored. I jumped up in the middle of the night after hearing a deep loud toot. A large yacht with all its lights tooted at the small blue sailboat behind us with no anchor light.

Wednesday February 29th, Leap Year Day, we motorsailed to Nassau, and it wasn’t too pleasant with large waves behind us, and, when we turned up, the waves were on our beam. We’d made a dogleg thru the whitebank to avoid the yellowbank and the numerous coral heads. I hailed Nassau Harbour Club Marina but they were full so we went into Nassau Yacht Haven, a much bigger marina at $2/ft. Coming into the harbour, I hailed Nassau Harbour Control to ask permission to enter. They asked the name of our boat, our registration number, number people on board, last port of call, and the marina we were staying.

After securing the boat we went up to the Bahamas Vision Center in the Harbour Bay Plaza to change Ken’s appt for the next day. Then a bite to eat at Bahamas Subs and Salads and some shopping at City Market. Nassau Yacht Haven had laundry for $4, wash and dry. We thankfully did 2 loads: clean sheets!, clean towels! While waiting for the washing, we enjoyed happy hour at The Poop Deck and met a 93yo Bahamian who lives on Paradise Island.

We were waiting for the dryer sitting on our boat when, BANG, something hit our boat! We jumped out and some drunk in a dinghy apparently mistakenly put the motor in reverse, hit the dock piling and was catapulted into our boat. I ran out to see if he was okay. He kept saying, I’m okay, I’m okay. He could barely stand up and didn’t even know where he was going. Ken asked for a line and tied him to a ladder. Meanwhile a large motorcat came in and the helmsman and 2 crew were drunk and that’s where this guy was headed. To think they were out on the water!

Heard on the Cruisers’ Net, VHF72 at 7:15am that a strong cold front was expected on Sunday night or Monday morning. We would need to head to the Abacos ASAP. Thursday the doc gave Ken the go ahead. We did some internet, stopped for conch salad at Potter’s Cay, ate Chinese at Double Dragon, and were ready.

The Exumas and Meeting Blue Planet

Saturday February 25th we motorsailed the 54 miles across Exuma Sound to Big Rock Cut at Staniel Cay in the Exumas. Right outside the cut I hear on the VHF, Plumpuppet, Plumpuppet, this is Blue Planet. Katja and Geoff were anchored at Big Major Spot waiting for us. What a surprise! 2 sailboats meeting at Big Major Spot! We found their boat and dropped anchor beside them then spent the evening going over our experiences getting to the Bahamas. The next day was a day of recuperation. We had lunch on Blue Planet then met later w/Ellie and Tom from s/v Silent Wings on the small beach up from Pig Beach.

Monday we three boats sailed to Emerald Rock at Warderick Wells, Exuma Park. We checked in then hiked up to Boo Boo Hill where we left signs. We even saw our old sign from 2009! Then on to Causeway Trail to see the rays. Later happy hour was on Plumpuppet, with goodbyes for now to Blue Planet. Silent Wings and we were headed to Nassau.

Nassau

Ken’s eye getting no better after seeing a nurse at Old Bight and being treated for conjunctivitis, we opted to go to Smith Bay to see the resident doctor of the Island. We met Mr Long, a teacher at Old Bight, who drove us to and from the clinic in Old Bight, going out of his way to leave school to take us back to our boat. Giving the medicine time to work, we hoped, we sailed up to Bennetts Harbour, anchored outside of the little settlement, went to shore and found Halvorson Resort and had lunch. A young couple w/2 young girls and their cook came from Colorado in November and took over the resort. They’re very enthusiastic with ambitious plans of making it a family resort, emphasizing children’s activities. We were impressed and loved the way they’ve embraced and been embraced by the local population.

We debated whether to leave the boat at Bennetts Harbour and hitchhike to Smith Bay. Luckily we motored down to Smith Bay, anchored outside, and that’s where the boat stayed for 3 nights while we made an emergency trip to Nassau to get treatment for Ken’s irisitis. After seeing the doctor, who did not have the equipment or prescriptions to treat Ken’s eye, we flew that afternoon, February 23rd, to Nassau and went to the emergency room at Princess Margaret. While we were talking to the doctor at Smith Bay, people in the waiting room were discussing our case. When we got ready to leave, one nurse had already made reservations with Sky Bahamas, a man offered to look after our dinghy, Nurse Saunders took us to our boat and would wait for us to take us to the airport. At the airport, the attendant telephoned Nassau to have a local Cat Island resident waiting for us to taxi us where we needed to go. He also suggested where we could stay.

And Maxwell was waiting for us at the airport, drove us into Princess Margaret, gave us his phone number to take us back the following morning. As any ER in any city, Princess Margaret was a zoo. We were herded in small groups from one waiting room to another and finally saw a doctor who referred us to the Bahamas Vision Center the next morning. He also suggested a motel, Orchard Gardens Motel, at a reasonable rate close to it.

Ken saw Dr Rodgers the next morning and was treated but he needed to see him the next day. I called Nurse Saunders and she assured me our boat was being well looked after. We called Maxwell to pick us up Friday morning for the afternoon flight back to Cat. He had been worried about us since we hadn’t called him Thursday morning.

Arriving back at Smith Bay, Nurse Saunders was waiting at the airport for us and dropped us off at our dinghy. We spent the night on a wildly roly-poly boat with the swells coming in from Exuma Sound, which was probably how it was the whole time we were gone. Waving goodbye to the lovely island, we headed towards the Exumas and to Nassau.

Cat Island

We left Conception Saturday, Feb 18th. With the wind directly behind us, we furled the m’sail but still made good time w/the NW current. Before we left, Ken was able to fix that Dutchmen line, having just enough extra to do the job, w/me holding a bucket under the attachments while he removed the screws and nuts on the bouncing boat.

We saw 2 boats sailing out of The Bight at Cat Island, but none anchored near New Bight. I reminded Ken Diane (s/v Pearl) said it was very quiet, but we didn’t expect to be the only boat. Later a catamaran came in and left early the next day. We could see The Hermitage in the distance.

We’re here to sit out the front, rather than sit it out at Conception, and to go to a clinic to check an eye infection Ken has. And to visit The Hermitage, a stone house built in the 1940s by Father Jerome that sits on Mt. Alvernia, the highest hill in the Bahamas. We walked to The Hermitage Sunday and were picked up by a group of Bahamians. All of us hiked to the top and we got a guided tour from one of the group. Father Jerome must have been a tiny man. The place is austere w/one tiny room where he studied and prayed, another tiny room where he did his cooking, another teensy room w/a table, an outside alcove w/a built in soapdish for a shower, then a separate building w/his tiny (about 2’ by 5’) bed. But the view! makes up for it. Very interesting

Conception

Wednesday, February 15th, we sailed up to Joe’s Sound and anchored off Hog Cay, a beautiful little anchorage w/ about 5 boats visible anchored in the protected anchorage of the little creek and one boat anchored near us. We had a perfect view of the sunset across the water and were rewarded w/a green flash. The night was awesome, seeming more isolated than any place we’ve been, even Great Sale Cay, with absolutely no ambient light other than a couple of the anchor lights from the boats. However, it was rather bouncy w/the strong easterly breeze coming off the low island.

Thursday morning we pulled out the sails and had a great sail up to Cape Santa Maria where we could see the Columbus Monument. Then we turned into the wind and debated turning around. Ken held the boat between 20-25 degrees off our course to prevent too much beating into it, but it still took us 6 hours to go 20 miles. We pulled into the anchorage and dropped the hook amid 5 boats. One of the Dutchmen lines broke. These help flake the m’sail and w/o it, the sail flopped all over in the wind. Not too nice in a bouncy boat.

Conception Island is a National Park w/no fishing, no facilities, and lots of snorkeling. There’s a mangrove swamp in the middle accessible by dinghy at high tide. The northwest corner provides a nice anchorage but no protection in a westerly wind. Early Friday we took a dinghy ride to the mangrove entrance but the tide was ebbing. Reconsidering, we’d do some snorkeling and come back later, preferably w/another boat. After snorkeling amid the protected reefs, Ken snorkeling north of the island and w/me near a reef closer to the beach, we decided not to take the long ride to the swamp. Another trip. That night 15 boats were in the anchorage, including a 120-150’ yacht anchored aways out. It looked like a little city at night w/all the anchor lights.

This picture is off Hog Cay, not Conception where there are no buildings, no facilities, nothing but a low lying island.

Thompson Bay, Long Island

Thursday, Feb. 9th, we moved the boat to Kidd’s Cove, right outside George Town. After taking the dinghy across Elizabeth Harbour, 1 mile, the day before, we figured it’d be easier to move the boat to get the fuel, water, and some groceries. We saw Tom and Cathy (s/v Interlude) at Exuma Market Wednesday. It was nice to see people we knew! And we went out to dinner at St. Francis Resort on Stocking Island and got caught up on email, etc. Thursday we saw Chris and Tom (s/v Polar Pacer) while doing errands. This cruising life involves a very small number of boats.

After listening to Cruisers’ Net at 8AM, VHF 72, we headed out for Long Island. It was another beautiful sunny day in the Bahamas, but not a good sailing day w/the 10K east wind. We noted landmarks as we cruised down Great Exuma Island: Tropic of Cancer, Santinas, Williams Town. Remember?, Katja and Geoff?

We came into Thompson Bay amid 20 other boats, which quickly swelled to 40 boats the next day with the front. We bounced around all day Saturday. It was so bouncy I spent most of the day in the cockpit because I was nauseous. A group of people were at the beach, which we thought was odd, wondering how they maneuvered their dinghies in the turmoil of waves. Later we found out they were trapped on the beach. A group had gone together sightseeing and couldn’t get back to their boats because their dinghies kept filling up w/water every time they’d try to get in them.

Long Island Breeze Resort right at Salt Pond caters to the cruisers. Jackie and Mike, the proprietors, have a floating dinghy dock for the cruisers and manage the Cruisers’ Net every morning on VHF 18. A call came out from Jackie for help moving the dinghy dock before the strong west wind would pummel it and some cruisers responded. We didn’t get in to check out the resort until Tuesday when we moved the boat closer to Salt Pond to get fuel, water, and some groceries.

Sunday was another day on the boat. The wind would not let up! The boat next to us put their dinghy in, moving it from the foredeck, like we do, and carefully lowering the motor using their halyard. They did well w/the help of their grandson and extra lines on the dinghy. What the heck! We’d try it, and the wind caught our dinghy and nearly blew it away! Ken grabbed it and I let go the halyard before it sailed off again. After that, and w/the winds not abating, we nixed going ashore for another day.

Monday we finally got off the boat and dinked to the beach, walked thru the brush on a sandy path and up to Salt Pond via Queens Highway (every island has a Queens Highway). We were impressed w/Hillside Supply, a well stocked grocery and hardware store; ate at Sou’ Side (cheeseburger, cheeseburger), and listened to the chatter on the TV about Whitney Houston’s death. Sad.

That night about 50 people congregated on the beach for a pre-Valentine party. It was fun talking to Kathy and Darius (s/v Breeze Hunter), Tom and Cathy (s/v Perseverance II), Gayle and Bruce (s/v Aquarelle), and meeting Dorothy and Glenn (s/v Dotsway) and others. A group was going to the Jumentos and we considered joining them, but decided to go the other way to Conception.

Valentine’s Day Long Island Breeze Resort was having a dinner and dance and a lot of the cruisers were going, but we decided to stay on the boat. After moving the boat closer to Salt Pond and getting fuel and water, which we carried to the beach because the dock at Long Island Petroleum was destroyed in the hurricane, we went into the resort and hooked up to internet and saw Pete and Diane (s/v Pearl). They’d spent 3 weeks at Cat Island and warned us it’s very quiet. We said we like quiet. We sat down next to Pam and Glenn (m/v Cacique), cruising veterans. We all recognized our boats from the ICW and it was nice to finally meet them. We were sorry to say goodbye to such a great group, but cruising calls.

Sand Dollar Beach, Stocking Island, Elizabeth Harbour, George Town anchorage

We broke away from Black Point and headed south Monday February 6th, making it to Lee Stocking Island, home of the Caribbean Research Center. Going out Galliot Cut with the SE wind and the ebbing tide made for an exciting passage with huge waves against us, but the current and wind with us, whizzing through the cut at 6.7K. Our speed decreased as we turned into the SE with spray going over our bow. Thankfully, only 12 miles until Adderly Cut and around to the anchorage at Lee Stocking. 3 boats were on mooring balls. Opting to anchor we dropped the hook among them; 3 chartered Beneteaus came in and took the remaining 3 mooring balls, and 2 other boats anchored. Numerous boats were anchored south at Williams Cay.

Tuesday, February 7th, we headed out early, 7am, to make it through Adderly Cut at, hopefully, slack tide, and it wasn’t bad. Once out, we hoisted the m’sail and motorsailed to Conch Cut. It was a beautiful day and the Sound was calmer than the day before. Numerous boats were out on the water. Coming into the harbour we could see a forest of sails in the distance, most around Volley Ball Beach. We tucked in a corner at Sand Dollar Beach and are enjoying the peace and quiet of the anchorage. We did dinghy into Chat ‘n Chill and saw one of the stingrays circling the dinghies at the beach and the pile of conch shells from the Chat ‘n Chill Conch Salad Bar. We could stay here: it’s warm and exotic. We have our books and Ken has his painting. I only need to find a Mexican Train game and internet!

Black Point anchorage

Wednesday, February 1st, we finally left Cambridge Cay for Black Point. We dinked over to the Exuma Park sign and pay box to pay $60 ($15/night) mooring fee after stopping to say hi to the s/v Gratitude from Brandon, VT. All of the boats in the mooring field were leaving, but new boats were coming in as we were going out the channel.

We motor sailed to Harvey Cay where we furled the jib to beat directly into the SE wind the 5 long miles to Black Point. About 40 boats were anchored Wednesday night, but most left the next day for Little Farmers.

Thursday we walked to the seaglass beach and spent about an hour collecting the glass. I love beachcombing and looking for sea glass is my favorite pastime, although it is all waiting for me to use. We ended up going once more during our stay, the first time being the most productive. Each day we thought we’d leave the next, but the weather would deteriorate and we weren’t sure the condition of Exuma Sound.

People were making arrangements for Super Bowl w/numerous parties around the islands. In Black Sound the most popular place is Lorraine’s, a small restaurant w/a laid back atmosphere. Black Sound is probably the most destitute rundown place the cruisers frequent. The big draw is Rockside Laundromat and the proprietor, Ida, also cuts hair, and there are coin operated hot showers. Besides Lorraine’s, there are DeShaMon and Scorpios. All offered Super Bowl parties, but most signed up for Lorraine’s with about 50 people in her little restaurant. We stopped in at Scorpios w/Pru and Burt from s/v Exuberant and Chris and Tom from s/v Polar Pacer. They’d just come from Little Farmers where they had a blast at the 5F.

All the islands were almost devoid of groceries because the supply boat was diverted to Little Farmers for the 5F. Little Farmers is a tiny island w/a population of 55. Most of the cruisers in the area and a lot of the Bahamian sailors and families converge on the island for the weekend. Important dignitaries, including the Prime Minister, give speeches; the racing boats and crew are transported by freighter.

Saturday, our last day, we thought, having eaten at Lorraine’s, which was an experience, we’d try DeShaMon’s. The door was closed. I checked to see if it was locked and if anyone was around. As I was entering through the unlocked door, someone from down the street hollered to say they were closed, that they’d gone to Little Farmers to the boat race and for us to eat at Lorraine’s. Lorraine’s is like no other restaurant. It’s very rundown on the outside and not much better on the inside. Lorraine herself was behind the bar, but wouldn’t wait on me to get Ken a Kalik and me a glass of wine. I had to wait on myself. She expects everyone to make themselves at home, to help themselves w/drinks and to keep a tally of it themselves. One table will give her their order then she goes into the kitchen and prepares it while all the rest of us wait our turns. After getting our drinks and serving one table, we gave her our order and I told a new couple, Cathy and Robert on s/v B n G what to expect. We spent the meal exchanging stories w/Cathy and Robert. Just as we were finishing, Lorraine said she was stepping out for awhile and could someone answer the VHF if anyone called. We figured out about what our bill would be, left the money at the table, and left. And this is why the cruisers embrace her, and why they embrace the whole community because they’re all like this. They’re all friendly and appreciate anything that’s done for them, yet they’re extremely casual about everything.

One night we joined Ann and Joe at Scorpios for happy hour and another had happy hour on their boat. We met Phillip and Sasha and their twins Chantelle and Corwin from Wyoming on s/v Amazing Grace. And Bruce and Gayle on s/v Aquarelle, who are veterans of cruising. The bay went from 40 boats to 20 during the 5F and back up to 50 boats for Sunday and the Super Bowl parties. It was time to leave.

Cambridge Cay mooring ball

We left the anchorage soon after 7am, following ‘Smiles’ with ‘Short Walk’ following us. Later ‘Makani’ and ‘Coyote’ caught up w/us and headed on to Highbourne Cay. The wind was nearly on our nose. I hailed Ann and Joe to say we might divert to Highbourne so we could sail, but decided against it, pulled out the jib, and motored sailed.

About 3 hrs into Exuma Sound about 20 small dolphins played in our bow wave and then veered off to the port side, leaping and bounding out of the water. One small one did impossible jumps, way into the air, upside down, until I determined it wasn’t a dolphin but a large fish they were tossing into the air. As I was scanning the horizon I saw a whitecap that didn’t disappear, looked thru the binoculars and saw it was a dinghy in the middle of Exuma Sound! I hailed Short Walk, who was a few miles behind us, to keep an eye out for it. We saw them change directions and they picked up a brand new 10’Zodiac inflatable w/a 15hp motor. Joe put out ‘securite’ calls and later found out s/v Chaunticler’ lost it at Rum Cay. It had traveled 100 miles north in Exuma Sound.

The crossing across Exuma Sound was a gentler crossing than across the NE Providence Channel. Just outside Bell Cut, we furled the sails and slowly motored into the mooring area where 5 others boats were moored with plenty of moorings open.

Sunday, January 29th, we lolled on the boat, listened to the weather on VHF 12 at 8am that ‘Blue Yonder’ transmits from Staniel Cay, and the mooring assignments at Exuma Park on VHF 09 at 9am. On our way to the seaglass beach we stopped and saw Ann and Joe to discuss the dinghy, which looks brand new and the owner is supposed to pick up tomorrow. Later we all snorkeled at the Sea Aquarium, a beautiful protected reef w/mooring balls for dinghies. Lots of Sergeant Majors, parrot fish of different colors, beautiful coral, and many other colorful fish. We also stopped at the downed plane, a small submerged plane w/reefs nearby. A large stingray w/its long stinger was partially buried in the sand. I opted not to go in w/the strong current but could see the stingray using the looky bucket. Then on to some small islands near to the mooring field. I walked to the island and sandbar we had used for happy hour, and Ann and I found boards to make a table. And, next to the Exuma Park sign was the pay box. On the way back to the boat we stopped at all the boats to notify them of happy hour on the island at 4:30pm. We all converged on the island w/appetizers and drinks, talked sailing, and watched the sunset for the green flash, which didn’t happen because of a cloud obscuring the sun on the horizon.

Next to Cambridge Cay is Belle Island. A sheik owns it, even though it’s in the Park, and is completely reorganizing the island, excavating from one side a monstrous pile of sand on the other. It was a shock to see the change. Johnny Depp owns Little Halls Pond Cay, close to the Sea Aquarium, but has kept the buildings low key, so far.

That night the front hit the area, rigging screeching and boat rocking back and forth, temperature dropping into the low 70s. It was a chance to cook: teff muffins, coleslaw, and the rest of the mutton snapper we bought in Spanish Wells. Later we dinked over to the beach w/the casuarinas and found the trail to the ocean side, stopped at the beach to Bell Rock and talked to Ann and Joe and Steve, the owner of ‘Chaunticler’, who couldn’t thank us enough for finding his dinghy, a needle in a haystack and on its way to Eleuthera where it would have beached on the sandbars, probably rotting in the sun and sand.

Tuesday, January 31st, we’d planned on leaving, but the weather had other plans. Rain came down in sheets, the wind rocking the boat. We later heard boats sailing on the Exuma bank clocking 32-35K. Many boats were making plans to go to the 5F Festival at Little Farmers Cay (Little Farmer Cay Festival on the First Friday in February). We were debating whether to join them or stay at Black Point enjoying the peace and quiet.

Rock Sound anchorage

Leaving beautiful Alabaster Bay around 8am, we sailed to Kemps Point, furled the sails and then motored on in to Rock Sound, dropping the hook near Little Gully and Pascal’s Restaurant among 4 other boats, including s/v Short Walk. ‘Makani’ and ‘Coyote’ came in later, making 11 boats in the north and central anchorages.

Ken changed the oil, pumped in the fuel, and topped off the water tanks.

The next morning, Wednesday, January 25th, Ann and Joe stopped by on their way to the gov’t dock and we dinghied over w/them. We all stopped at Dingles, a local gas station/store/internet supplier. Ken and I walked on to The Market, stopping and talking to Betsy and Jim from m/v Smiles. Ann and Joe stopped by later for happy hour and we discussed going to Cat Island, via Little San Salvador, from here.

Thursday we replenished the fuel and water. Ken and I dinghied over to the gov’t dock, a small dock w/ladders built after the other docks were destroyed, not very convenient to Dingles. He filled the 2 jerry cans then carried them out to the dock w/o ladders, what is left of the old gov’t dock. I stayed there while he brought the dinghy around, stood on the side of the dinghy, grabbed a jerry can I helped him balance, lifting it down into the dinghy. We repeated this process, which is lucky we did because the next day Dingles ran out of fuel. I also signed up for 24hr of internet.

At noon we met Ann and Joe at Pascal’s for lunch and to fill our jerry cans w/water. They’d been sitting at the table for awhile waiting for the restaurant to open. Hours for lunch were to start at 11am, but the owner didn’t get around to opening until after noon. We all discussed our plans. With the winds continuing out of the SE, it made sense to go to the Exumas first then Rum, Conception, and Cat coming back up. Later, checking the weather again, Ken and I decided we’d go the other way. I sent Ann and email and she laughed saying they’d decided to go to the Exumas. We’d wait until morning to make a final decision. Friday with the weather report from Chris Parker predicting strong winds for a few days, we all decided the Exumas made more sense, and the moorings at Cambridge Cay would provide protection, plus there’s lots of snorkeling around there.

Ken and I went into Pascal’s again Friday and on to The Market since Pascal’s was still buttoned down at 11:30. We came back and had lunch and filled our jerry cans w/water again. We got back to the boat and put up the motor and dinghy. That night was a fund raiser/dinner at the pavilion near the beach and we could hear the loud bass until 2am! We later heard from other boaters that the dinner was delicious.

Alabaster Bay anchorage

Conferring w/Short Walk, we agreed to leave between 7 and 7:30am to make it through Current Cut near slack tide. Bandit had not come to collect our mooring fee of $20. I hailed him at 7am Sunday, afraid the whole town would be unavailable all Sunday, but he answered and said he’d be out to collect. We left our moorings about 7:30am, Short Walk having to weave in between 2 fishing boats. Current Cut is a small cut between Current Island and Eleuthera Island where the current can be 4-6 knots and it’s best to time one’s passage at slack tide, which is hard to predict w/high tide being 2 hours different from one side of Eleuthera to the other. Needless to say, we weren’t on the mark and fought the ebbing tide, getting down to 2.6K. Ken and I were debating whether we were early (Ken’s vote) or late (my vote).

We motored across the Eleuthera bank into Alabaster Bay and dropped the hook near a beautiful beach and the resort Coco diMama. Short Walk went on to Hatchet Bay. The next morning we dinked ashore and asked at the resort the way to the Atlantic beach, walked along the road through an old abandoned US missile base to the shore littered w/ the detritus of modern life, gutted small huts, and large cement blocks.

Back at the resort we lounged on the chaise longues under the shade of a tiki hut waiting for 12 noon and lunch. I had the Coco Insalade: greens, tomatoes, sliced apples, walnuts, and grilled shrimp w/lime vinaigrette, and a pinot grigio.. Ken had the strawberry grouper, broccoli, and potato wedges w/the special of the day: mango daiquiri. Mmmm…

We asked the waitress, who is from Clarence Town, Long Island (and recommended visiting her family’s resort, similar to Coco diMama), about snorkeling, dinked out to the rocks and Ken snorkeled at Alabaster Bluff. Tomorrow: Rock Sound.

Spanish Wells

Ann hailed Bandit in Spanish Wells to see if there were moorings available for our 2 boats and there were: #1 for Short Walk, #2 a large cat Double Diamond, #4 Makani, #5 Plumpuppet, #6 a small trawler, #7 a small sailboat, and #8 Coyote, all in a small area with Charlies Island on one side and sandbanks underwater at hightide on the other. Double Diamond stopped by to say hi, one couple having a cabin in Elmore, VT and having skied at Jay Peak, and gave us pointers. Tomorrow being Sunday, everything closes down even at Spanish Wells and Harbour Island and the ferry to Harbour Island leaves later and returns earlier on Sundays.

We, Ann and Joe, found the tiny dinghy dock in front of Pinders Supermarket crowded w/2 dinghies already tied and a small ferry. We were assured by one former sailor gone landlubber that the ferry was not being used today and this was the only dinghy dock, so we maneuvered around, got in, and tied our dinghies to poles. The town reminds us of most other Bahamian island towns w/almost every little space taken up by small shops and houses. Our first concern was food. After checking out the beach we found The Gap Restaurant and settled down for a nice lunch. Ken had the cracked conch burger; Ann and I had the hickory smoked chicken salad, and Joe had the BLT w/potato wedges. Delicious!

Ken and I walked on to the end of the island to a park w/pink sand from the coral w/a stop at Food Fair, a fairly extensive large supermarket comparable to Maxwell’s in Marsh Harbour, and left Ann and Joe to stop for an internet connection at the internet café.

Walking back we stopped and asked about leaving garbage and buying fish. Spanish Wells has a large fishing fleet and supplies over half of the Bahama’s commercial crop of lobster, conch and fish. A Sweeting, related to the original Eleutherian Adventurers, a group from England seeking religious freedom that shipwrecked on the reefs in 1648, found us some frozen mutton snapper, driving us on his golf cart regaling me w/stories about his life on Spanish Wells and showing us his large fishing boat.

Eleuthera

Wednesday, Jan 18, 2012: We listened to Cruisers’ Net, prepared the boat, paid our marina bill for 33 days and then were on our way, waving goodbye to Sue (Ariel), hailing Kilissa to say goodbye to Richard and Carole who are staying in the Abacos for the season, and hailing Short Walk. Ann said they were waiting a day, and we should have waited w/them because we had to beat into the south wind the whole way to Lynyard Cay. We did catch a small jack near Pelican Cays that Ken filleted for supper.

I hailed the boats anchored and ‘Moira’ answered. They were thinking of waiting a day because of the large swells coming into the ocean. Heck! We’re in no hurry and tomorrow Pete’s Pub is open!

There was a fire SW of Little Harbour and with the south winds veering from the SW the smoke blew into us most of the night. Bahamians tend to burn things, like their garbage.

Thursday we dinked ashore to a small beach on Lynyard and walked up for a view of the ocean which looked flat and calm. About 4 boats had left that morning and we were thinking it would have been a good day. Later we heard the crossing wasn’t that nice and we were glad we waited a day.

The wind had shifted from the N, NW. We thought we’d try the anchorage right outside Little Harbour and dink in, but with the swell and the waves, we weren’t comfortable leaving the boat and came back to anchor farther south at Lynyard Cay. We could have gone into the harbour and left early the next morning because the tides would have been okay, but we hesitated going into the little harbour. Boats were coming down, some to anchor, some entering Little Harbour. A large sailboat, 45’ or so, anchored behind us waiting for high tide to go in and we wondered how crowded the anchorage was.

We were bouncing on our anchor with the NW wind which was to veer later to the NE and then we’d be in the lee of Lynyard.

Friday Jan 20th
3 boats left the anchorage before dawn, one, Down Island, going out the North Bar inlet and the other two slowly motoring to Little Harbour inlet allowing the sun to rise. We and Short Walk left soon afterwards, got through the inlet, raised out sails and were able to sail most of the way to Royal Island. Our only excitement were 2 freighters crossing our bows, Ken veering to the west to give them plenty of room. The swells increased in size near the end and we were glad to get behind the bank. This NE Providence Channel is deep, 15,000 feet! Motoring into the calm anchorage at Royal Harbour, we dropped the hook in 9 feet of water. Nice!

Cameran Leaves, Bingo, Mexican Train, ETC.

3 weeks have sped by. It’s time for Cameran and Nova to leave. Boo hoo! Richard and Carole (s/v Kilissa) stopped by to meet Nova. Carole was enthralled with her and Nova smiled and cooed at both of them.

Ken and I went into town and he picked up a sensor at NAPA’s, wonder of wonders!, plus another bottle of rum to go along w/it, of course. And the new dinghy dock has been installed. Great job Royal Marsh Harbour Yacht Club!

Wednesday we went out for our last lunch together at the Jib Room. James Williams, taxi #94, was there at 1:45pm to pick them up and we gave our precious cargo over to him. Goodbye Cameran and Nova! We’ll miss you! It’s been a blast!

Thursday, Jan 12, Ken helped me lug the sleeping bag, quilt, and 1 blanket to the town Laundromat, where about half the machines have ‘out of order’ on them, typically Bahamas. Ken installed the new sensor. Then it was Bingo!, a fund raiser for Every Child Counts. I sat w/Jeanette (s/v Tallyho), Chris (s/v Missing Link), and Brenda (s/v Sea Return). Who would have thought Bingo could be so complicated. I mean, there’s regular ole Bingo, where a full line, up or down or diagonal, constitutes a Bingo, but then there’s the ‘Postage Stamp’, ‘the 4 Corners’, the ‘double line’, ‘outside perimeter’, ‘inside square’, and I forget all the others. And guess what??? I won $100 gift cards to Price Right!!

Friday night it started lightning about 3am then poured and we had sporadic electricity all day, which affected the internet. Chris stopped by to ask if I wanted to play Mexican Train. I said sure and met the group of ladies in the Jib Room at 2pm. It’s a lot of fun and I actually won that first day, but lost the 2nd day. We’ll play again Monday. Ken and I readied the boat for our departure. I defrosted the fridge, finished the wash, cleaned the boat, and he topped off the fuel and water and saw that the new sensor is working. We’re ready to head out as soon as the weather calms down and we can get out of North Bar or Little Harbour inlet. But……now that I’m playing Mexican Train, these women need me!

Treasure Cay and Great Guana

Thursday, Jan 5th, was happy hour at the Jib Room starting at 5pm, open to the harbour. Cameran and I brainstormed to find something that both of us could eat: no dairy, soy, gluten, corn. I finally settled on quesidillas with spicy beans and olives in the middle of the dish, not something I could eat, but she could. It was nice to meet some of the people anchored, and one, John on Piscator, is from E Johnson, VT!

Friday, Jan 6th, we went in to Buck-a-Book then Cameran, Nova, and I went to the beach for Cameran to snorkel. She said it was coollldd! Ken worked on the boat, removing the sensor so he could find another to replace it.

Saturday, Jan 7th, we started out on a beautiful sunny day to Treasure Cay. The place is practically deserted w/a few boats anchored and only a few in the marina. It was rather eerie, but it is their off season. The long impressive beach is one of the most beautiful in the world. We walked it with Nova asleep in the Ergo carrier then stopped for a drink at Coco Bar. The next day after breakfast Ken was pulling up anchor and saw an odd looking fish lurking around the anchor rode. Not until it lifted its head and we saw the distinctive tentacles could we tell it was a squid. Numerous small fish were darting around the disturbed sand, and the squid must have been waiting for a meal. We slowly motored out of the harbour disturbing numerous large turtles as we left.

We headed towards Fowl Cay, a land and sea preserve, dropped the hook and went ashore. Ken snorkeled on the ocean side; Cameran and I walked the beach, me involved in my usual activity of beach combing. We'd decided to spend the night there since it was so calm, but gentle rollers were coming in from both sides and we opted to leave. I turned the key to start the motor--nothing. It took Ken awhile to figure out not only the main breaker was tripped, but the engine breaker also. We finally got on our way with a near full moon coming up in the east and a brilliant sun setting in the west. We dropped the hook at the south end of Great Guana. I made a huge pot of salmon chowder and we settled in for the night.

Monday January 9th, we motored over to Fishers Bay and walked up to Nippers for lunch. Ken and Cameran found out where the best place to snorkel and were impressed with the clear water and quantity of fish. The ocean is actually warmer than the Sea of Abaco. We headed back to Marsh Harbour and the marina and were greeted by Charles (Ariel) and Carolyn (Summer Tilt) asking us to another happy hour at the end of the other dock. Cameran, Nova, and I joined the group.

The Big Blow

We dinghied over to the Tupp’s dinghy dock and ate lunch, Eliz’s treat, at Snappa’s. Afterwards we went to Mermaid Reef again to swim before another big blow and cold weather descended upon us with nights predicted in the low 50s. And blow it did with Little Harbour clocking 41mph, and we clocked a gust at 27k on our boat. Hardly anyone was moving, all hunkered down in their boats. Eliz and Elena walked to town, though, and spent the day shopping and looking around. We’ve had glorious weather until now and were able to do and see a lot while the kids were here. The wind stirred up the silt and sand and the Sea of Abaco was a milky sea green with the dark front behind it.

The New Year, 2012!

We all walked to Mermaid Reef. I sat on a little sandy beach w/Nova and Elena while Ken, Jeremy, Cameran and Eliz snorkeled. We made a great farewell dinner for Jeremy of grilled mahi-mahi, sprouted bean salad, and fried plantains. I tried hailing a taxi on VHF 06 where a cacophony of taxi drivers answered the call. Yikes! Pam and Dan from Skall and Bones suggested James Williams, Taxi#94. Jeremy hailed him to pick him up at 5pm. We’ll miss him. He was a great help when we sailed and was quickly learning ‘the ropes’, he, he. Jeremy left to catch a flight for Nassau and the Junkanoo.

New Year’s Eve in the Bahamas

In the afternoon Ken took everyone but me into town for some shopping while I enjoyed a quiet boat. Supper at the Jib Room was to be at 7pm, but would not be served until 8pm. We’d all signed up for their special dinner: either BBQ chicken, mahi-mahi, or steak. And we were starved! No one but Jeremy stayed up until midnight. We were woken up with the fireworks at Snappa’s, though.