Wednesday, February 1st, we finally left Cambridge Cay for Black Point. We dinked over to the Exuma Park sign and pay box to pay $60 ($15/night) mooring fee after stopping to say hi to the s/v Gratitude from Brandon, VT. All of the boats in the mooring field were leaving, but new boats were coming in as we were going out the channel.
We motor sailed to Harvey Cay where we furled the jib to beat directly into the SE wind the 5 long miles to Black Point. About 40 boats were anchored Wednesday night, but most left the next day for Little Farmers.
Thursday we walked to the seaglass beach and spent about an hour collecting the glass. I love beachcombing and looking for sea glass is my favorite pastime, although it is all waiting for me to use. We ended up going once more during our stay, the first time being the most productive. Each day we thought we’d leave the next, but the weather would deteriorate and we weren’t sure the condition of Exuma Sound.
People were making arrangements for Super Bowl w/numerous parties around the islands. In Black Sound the most popular place is Lorraine’s, a small restaurant w/a laid back atmosphere. Black Sound is probably the most destitute rundown place the cruisers frequent. The big draw is Rockside Laundromat and the proprietor, Ida, also cuts hair, and there are coin operated hot showers. Besides Lorraine’s, there are DeShaMon and Scorpios. All offered Super Bowl parties, but most signed up for Lorraine’s with about 50 people in her little restaurant. We stopped in at Scorpios w/Pru and Burt from s/v Exuberant and Chris and Tom from s/v Polar Pacer. They’d just come from Little Farmers where they had a blast at the 5F.
All the islands were almost devoid of groceries because the supply boat was diverted to Little Farmers for the 5F. Little Farmers is a tiny island w/a population of 55. Most of the cruisers in the area and a lot of the Bahamian sailors and families converge on the island for the weekend. Important dignitaries, including the Prime Minister, give speeches; the racing boats and crew are transported by freighter.
Saturday, our last day, we thought, having eaten at Lorraine’s, which was an experience, we’d try DeShaMon’s. The door was closed. I checked to see if it was locked and if anyone was around. As I was entering through the unlocked door, someone from down the street hollered to say they were closed, that they’d gone to Little Farmers to the boat race and for us to eat at Lorraine’s. Lorraine’s is like no other restaurant. It’s very rundown on the outside and not much better on the inside. Lorraine herself was behind the bar, but wouldn’t wait on me to get Ken a Kalik and me a glass of wine. I had to wait on myself. She expects everyone to make themselves at home, to help themselves w/drinks and to keep a tally of it themselves. One table will give her their order then she goes into the kitchen and prepares it while all the rest of us wait our turns. After getting our drinks and serving one table, we gave her our order and I told a new couple, Cathy and Robert on s/v B n G what to expect. We spent the meal exchanging stories w/Cathy and Robert. Just as we were finishing, Lorraine said she was stepping out for awhile and could someone answer the VHF if anyone called. We figured out about what our bill would be, left the money at the table, and left. And this is why the cruisers embrace her, and why they embrace the whole community because they’re all like this. They’re all friendly and appreciate anything that’s done for them, yet they’re extremely casual about everything.
One night we joined Ann and Joe at Scorpios for happy hour and another had happy hour on their boat. We met Phillip and Sasha and their twins Chantelle and Corwin from Wyoming on s/v Amazing Grace. And Bruce and Gayle on s/v Aquarelle, who are veterans of cruising. The bay went from 40 boats to 20 during the 5F and back up to 50 boats for Sunday and the Super Bowl parties. It was time to leave.
No comments:
Post a Comment